This was going to be a piece about why city centre pubs shouldn’t bother serving food and should stick to crisps.

About how dispiriting it is eating a greasy burger and chips surrounded by all-day drinkers, and how my heart goes out to all the tourists sucked into said hostelries on the premise that olde English pubs must serve good authentic food.

In fact, I had almost completely written the review of The Red Lion on the walk into town, heels dragging as I marched on to meet my saturated fat fate.

“Where are we going again?” my friend asked as we trudged into Oxford.

“Nowhere special I’m afraid, but it’s got to be done,” I said glumly. “It’s a city centre pub which has had a revamp, but I’m not expecting miracles, so prepare for the worst,” I added disgruntedly.

The Red Lion pub needs to be reviewed though. It’s right on Gloucester Green and its notoriety in its previous incarnations is legendary, most recently as The Goose.

Ringing any bells? It’s the curved pub near the big Odeon cinema with the massive enclosed beer garden, usually full of all-day drinkers, live football and bouncers at weekends.

Yes, that one! So you can perhaps understand my reluctance to review its new format.

Taking a deep breath I opened the door and marched in, presuming to be met by a dark interior smelling of last night’s lager.

Wrong, wrong, wrong. It was like stepping out of the Narnia wardrobe.

And in place of my purgatory dining experience was a fresh, light, colourful, beautifully decorated pub, where the onus was clearly on food, rather than the bar. Had we got the right place? There must be some mistake!

“Is this The Red Lion, which used to be The Goose and has just re-opened?” I stuttered. “Yes,” our smiling waiter replied grinning, obviously used to the bemused reaction of all new punters.

Leading us to our table we perused the menu and were even more startled. Don’t tell me that a city centre pub is actually serving food we want to eat? Somewhere we can come when venturing into Oxford at the weekend? Somewhere other than the George Street Italian take-over. Something other than pizza?

But yes the unthinkable has happened and I’m pleased to report that The Red Lion is fabulous.

It is a pub chain, but you’d never guess and the food is fresh, appetising and there’s so many fantastic dishes on the menu that my only thought was ‘when can I come back and try out everything else’.

So, first up smoked salmon, bubble and squeak and hollandaise (£6.95), the combination creating a really delicious dish and a great start to our meal.

We also tried the mushroom, Pinot Grigio, and panagratto served with flatbread (the crispy topping) which came baked in a ramekin for £4.95 and wowed us both.

Next up the Classic burger which came with onion, gherkin, mustard mayo, cheese, bacon, relish and fries, all for £10.95, which was tasty but messy – aren’t they always?

The asparagus, artichoke, pomegranate, beetroot, feta cheese, pine nut and alfalfa sprout salad (£9.95) was extraordinarily good, different, fresh and inventive.

And then, having written off the meal before we arrived I was foisted by my own petard. I had booked an interview for early afternoon so that we had an excuse to leave early, and so we didn’t get time to sample the mouth-watering array of desserts.

Still, it gives me a good excuse to return as soon as humanly possible and with a new spring/summer menu to enjoy, bet I’ll beat you to it.

* The Red Lion is at 14 Gloucester Street, Oxford, OX12 BN. Call 01865 726255