Kings of korma Ed Nix and Tim Hughes are on a quest to find the finest South Asian cuisine in Oxfordshire. They are the Curry Brothers, and Qumins is where they’re at this week.

EVERYONE loves a cheap and cheerful chicken jalfrezi, and none more than us.

But there are times when you need a bit more – when you want to impress.

So, if you’re trying to create a bit of an impression – whether it be with a workmate, a contact, your mum – or just someone you’re planning to have your wicked way with (you devious thing, you!), you’re going to need somewhere with a bit of style, panache and quality nosh.

A few years ago, that would have meant heading off to somewhere pretentious with a French name, tiny portions, big plates – and even bigger prices.

Fortunately we live in more enlightened times, and you can still indulge your love of fine curry while lording it up in classy surroundings.

To prove it, the Curry Brothers invited along Oxford’s ‘Man about Town’ himself, Guide editor Jeremy Smith, pictured above, right, with me.

A self-confessed novice to the charms of Bangladeshi cuisine, Jeremy was eager to try out the best Oxford had to offer – without compromising on style.

The pressure was on.

The Curry Brothers were nervous – we knew we had to pick the best.

Fortunately, despite his appearance, Ed is a regular at probably the smartest Indian restaurant in the county – Qumins, in St Clement’s. And he swore it was the place we needed – strong on looks, big on ambience and top of the range on quality ‘ruby’.

Qumins is one of those growing breed of South Asian eateries which look nothing at all like a curry house. The place is a testament to the art of interior design – a light and airy slither of a restaurant leading to a nightclub-style illuminated bar, behind which the utterly charming Ali Azam presides – like a culinary DJ.

The menu is bold, imaginative and a leap away from what is usually a standard template of favourites and specialities.

You would be a fool to opt for your regular curry here.

Fitting the occasion, and substituting the hirsute Ed for our slinky curry sister Holly, we eschewed the usual rounds of Cobra beers and dived in to the generous wine list – going for a bottle of sparkling wine. And another, as the popadums gave way to a tasty trio of starters – a firm aloo tikka (potato, corn and coriander mashed and shallow fried), succulent shami (lamb) kebab, and king prawns with a little puri bread.

So far, so tasty… and not a hint of the fiery sting which our chilli-sceptic companion was fearing. But we were still hungry – and aware that the bar had already been set high.

With the sparkling giving way to a bold red, Ali served up his recommendations – two sizzling platters turned heads the length of the restaurant.

The first was a lobster shashlick – big chunks of barbecued rock lobster flavoured with masala. The smell was irresistible and I had to physically hold my hand down to avoid forking the biggest chunks of tail before the rest of the courses had even been served. In the event there was plenty to go round.

Then it was on to chef’s mohili curry – a dish from Kerala, in India’s deep south, consisting of a hunk of fish, similar to sea bass, in a mild and creamy coconut milk curry sauce.

Then came the second sizzler – a chicken korai, tasty and juicy in a strong coriander powder sauce, and two lovely veggie dishes; along with a sag aloo (spinach and potatoes), and bhindi bhaji (cooling okra – or ‘ladies’ fingers’).

It was served with a big plate of boiled rice and a single garlic nan (over-ordering on the carbs is always a mistake) The food was clean and light, with none of the bulking-out with onion which goes on in too many establishments. So while the portions weren’t huge, they were good, leaving us all satisfied but not uncomfortable.

They were chased down with mango kulfi, and chocolate ice cream (which Jeremy admitted was the best he’d ever tasted… which is quite something, coming from a guy who prefers to spend his weekends schmoozing in five-star hotels).

It was a fabulous meal, and all for just over £86 – including coffees and deserts (but without the wine). We’d set out to impress, and Qumins had done it, by doing what it does best – serving good, interesting and excellent-value food. Milking the sophistication to the last, Holly did her best Audrey Hepburn impression while drinking a liquor coffee.

And she would have pulled it off, had she not then invited everyone over the road to The Duke, for real ale, ‘Jägerbombs’ and a game of pool. Ah well… we nearly got away with it!

* Qumins, 86 St Clement’s Street, Oxford. 01865 247057 qumins.co.uk