T’S a strange place, George Street. The ground zero of Oxford’s raucous night time economy, it is, on any day of the week, overflowing with primped and primed fun-seekers spilling into, or falling out of, bars; tottering to clubs or jostling for kebabs or taxis.

But there are culinary gems on the city centre’s liveliest nocturnal street in the shape of a great old pub (The Grapes) a cheap newer one (The Four Candles) and, perhaps more surprising, a great French restaurant – Côte.

Côte claims to have been inspired by the classic Parisian bistro, and it’s got pretty close, though with a couple of glaring exceptions. For while Paris eateries are frequently haughty and expensive, Côte is friendly and very good value for money.

The place’s proportions are deceptive. It’s a big, or rather, long, old place, but through good design, it feels cosy, being divided into a series of intimate spaces. There is subdued, laid-back music and a gentle buzz with waitresses flitting attentively between tables occupied by a typically Oxfordian (but not very George Street) mix of families, couples, obvious academics, tourists and theatregoers – the latter being courted with a special menu and the offer of free Kir Royal on production of an Oxford Playhouse ticket.

One thing you wouldn’t guess is that Côte is part of an extensive national chain; cheery waitress Sarah explaining that each branch was run along the lines of an independent restaurant – and It showed. The menu may be the same from Bristol to York, but there is no sense of cookie-cutter uniformity. Cafe Rouge it is not.

Without flogging its Frenchness, the menu remains faithfully Gallic, with attention paid to provenance. So there’s Breton chicken, Burgandian sausage and Normandy butter.

There’s also a good mix of classic meaty dishes, loads of fish and seafood and, again unlike its real Parisian counterparts, a respectable choice of imaginative veggie dishes – asparagus risotto, spinach and mushroom crepes and goats cheese salad with tapenade.

In the interests of research, and because I can’t resist seafood, I started with moules marinières (£6.50) – perfectly tender (not chewy) mussels in a lovely white wine, garlic, shallot, parsley and fresh cream sauce. Perhaps my reputation preceeds me, but the still beaming Sarah also offered to get me a basket of bread (slices of lovely soughdough) to soak up all that creamy loveliness. My friend broke the habit of a lifetime and instead went for something green and crunchy – a warm Roquefort salad (£5.35). This consisted of a plate of chicory-like endive leaves, dressed with walnuts, croutons and a cheesy dressing. They looked good, so I stole one to make sure.

As any self-respecting brassierie should, Côte prides itself on its steaks – and with a choice of three good cuts ribeye, sirloin and fillet, plus some tasty sounding sauces and butters, it was a pretty obvious choice. Served simply with fries and Roquefort butter, my rare seven-ounce fillet (£18.50) was exceptional, being melt-in-the-mouth tender and among the best I’ve had anywhere. As always, it could have been a touch bloodier – so if that’s your thing, maybe order it ‘bleu’.

My friend stuck with the healthy thing, going for a great-looking pan-roasted salmon Hollandaise (£11.95) with green beans and new potatoes. It was pretty fine, but not a patch on mine. No food envy for me, for once.

Out of respect for our cousins across La Manche, I finished off with a Grand Marnier crepe (£5.50) – flambéed with appropriate theatricality, at the table and a double espresso (£2.45). Job done.

With prices for food and wine on a par with Oxfordshire pubs, but quality to match many top-end restauants, and friendly service from chatty and knowledgeable waitresses, Côte is indeed a find. Maybe someone ought to tell the Parisians how it should be done?

Côte, 41-47 George Street, Oxford
01865 251992 oxford@cote-restaurants.co.uk

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