I accepted an invitation to sample the Christmas fare at The Fishes, in North Hinksey — well, could I say no to a favourite pub so nearly on my doorstep? — as we shivered through the dismal days of early September. Who would have guessed that by the time the event took place we should be sweltering in record autumn temperatures?

The dozen or so of us who sat down to dinner were naturally amused to be eating roast turkey (albeit in a somewhat different from usual form) on a day when the thermometer had nudged into the high twenties (as I am just learning to call 85F). In the circumstances our host Jeremy Knivett, of Peach Pubs, thought it sensible to pass over Christmas pudding, though be assured this naturally figures on The Fishes’ menu.

Another effect of the warm weather was to make the pub more than usually busy on this Friday night. Not only were all the indoor tables full, as they generally are at weekends here, but many customers were eating out of doors — a pleasure they might have thought had ended for 2011 some weeks earlier. This might have put a bit of a strain on chef Dan Kerr and his team, without the bother of having to cook from a separate menu for us. If it did, there was no sign of it on our side of the kitchen door.

Besides a contingent of press-persons, our party included a number of people who regularly patronise another Peach pub, The Fleece, beside Church Green, Witney. This is going to be offering the same Christmas menu between December 1 and 24, at a price of £22.50 for two courses and £28 for three, with tea and coffee. Meeting these new faces brought added enjoyment to the evening.

So did glasses of wine, which in my case meant the Chilean unoaked chardonnay (Pato Torrente). This proved a sprightly number that was just perfect with the starters. What these were can be seen in the picture of me, which was taken by Helen Peacocke who was sitting opposite me. Please don’t imagine I scoffed the whole of what is on the platter — usually employed for The Fishes’ famous (and much imitated) deli boards. These were for sharing.

Everything was warmly approved but I especially enjoyed the chicken, ham hock and leek terrine, not least because it looked so wonderful, especially with the bright yellow rough-cut piccalilli beside it. Other starters were two ways with parsnip (a creamy soup and spiced parsnip crisps) and a double whammy of salmon (chunks of poached and hot-smoked) with an apple and chestnut salad and lemon crème fraîche.

When I revisit (as I am sure I shall) for a Christmas celebration, I shall be spoilt for choice over the main course. Will it be the free-range turkey (from Parsonage Farm, in Shalford, Essex), which is served as a juicy roulade wrapped around stuffing (with pancetta, roast spuds and chipolatas); or will it be the blade of beef bourguignon, rich and sticky, with free-range bacon and sweet potato mash? Or perhaps I will go with the fish — sea bass fillets, with pear and celeriac remoulade and orange salad. Veggies will like the quiche — grilled artichoke and mushroom, with Waldorf salad, assuming (as Basil Fawlty famously said) they’re not “just out of Waldorfs”.

Mulled cherries and cinnamon ice cream would be my pudding, though the warm chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream was — my fellow diners reported — very good indeed.

Christmas pud? I’ll leave that until December 25.