Linora Lawrence explores Oxford and discovers some delightful independent shops.

What do you expect when you go shopping on a high street? All the usual chain stores perhaps? Oxford does not disappoint in this, although many of the big names are in Queen Street and Corn Market.

But the difference in our city is that, like a lovely necklace of random stones, shops, banks and cafes enjoy a beautiful setting, interspersed among listed buildings and ancient and mysterious alleyways.

Oxford High Street falls naturally into three sections, the divides occurring at the Turl Street junction and again at the Queen's Lane junction. There are plenty of eateries, sandwich bars and souvenir shops to serve each section.

Two newsagents serve either end of the High. Tim's Newsagents (17) is at the Carfax end on the north side near the Covered Market entrances. Honey's of the High (49) is at the Magdalen Bridge end, still on the north side and is a newsagent and off licence which also carries a useful range of medicines, confectionery and some souvenirs.

HIGH FASHION

The obvious thing you would visit Oxford's High Street for is fashion, both women's and men's. The men's clothing is mostly classic, but there are one or two very trendy outlets as well.

You would also go for jewellery, silverware, original prints, contemporary art and good places to lunch, dine or take afternoon tea.

Afterwards you could visit other, truly original shops that offer products you did not even know you wanted!

Starting from Carfax, it is worth remembering that the numbering goes down one side and up the other (like Tottenham Court Road in London). Lloyds Bank (1-5) occupies the north corner with Ryman's the Stationers (6-7) next door.

Opposite is the Edinburgh Woollen Mill (Carfax Corner - they don't give a number, but must incorporate 139/140). We all know we can rely on this well-known mill outlet for Scottish knitware, clothing for men and women, shortbread, jewellery, accessories and good value multi-purchases always on offer.

If you are searching for a ball gown, a special outfit, smart business clothes or indeed, more everyday work clothes, shoes or the usual accessories, you could spend a good half-day making comparisons from the great selection stocked in the following shops on the High.

Coast (138) has female fashions for the young and young-at-heart with lovely evening gowns and statement jewellery. The manager, Karla Banta, explained that their clientele is aged between 16 to 65. Coast is also well-known for modern bridesmaid's dresses. There is also a good selection of cocktail and smart business dresses and accessories. Knitware starts from £45. Karla is proud of their free one-to-one service. Just make an appointment to book exclusive assistance in finding your outfit for that special event. Dresses: mid-price £175.

Reiss (135) is a brand with a distinctive style of its own. Before I spoke to anyone I was drooling over some black leather, elbow-length gloves with faux snakeskin inserts between each finger, then there were the womens' bowler hats and, hey, I was still just looking at accessories. Manager, Kylee Bowen told me that the designs are catwalk inspired, with a definite homage to the greats such as Coco Chanel. Here you will find names are such as Erden, Herve Leger and soon they will be stocking Celine. Shoes, smart evening wear and knitware complete the collection. Dresses: mid-price £169.

Karen Millen (136) is a branch of the well established, own-brand women's clothing chain. There you will find some of the chunkiest-ever leather bags, the highest heels and shortest skirts. There are mirrors everywhere, the staircase to the upper floor sparkles with faceted mirror glass, so shopping here has a glitzy feel about it. Dresses: mid-price £140.

At Jigsaw (134) there is plenty of room in which to browse, with a comfortable leather sofa near the changing rooms, clearly useful for waiting husbands. But do not trip over the Grecian urns which decorate the shop while you browse the selection. Dresses: mid-price £159.

The L K Bennett (10) chain was established in 1990 and now has stores across Britain, Europe and some in the USA. They describe themselves as luxury British fashion and are proud of their signature shoes. Dannii Minogue was spotted in the recent X-Factor series looking gorgeous in one of their creations. Dresses: mid-price £195.

White Stuff (9) has a young, comfortable, free and easy feel about it. Girls' dresses are designed to be worn over tights, leggings or trousers. Guys should check out their jeans. Dresses: mid-price £50.

Whistles (106) has its own distinct style. Apart from own-brand clothes they stock Sam Edelman and Kat Maconie shoes. The Oxford store has plenty of room in which to find out. I was rather taken by the Dotty dress (£110) with skater skirt, but then, I have a weakness for polka dots. Dresses: mid-price £145.

Hobbs (115) is known for combining fashion with the best features of classic items. Soft forgiving fabrics and good, staple colours are always available. Look out for their Delancy Mary Jane shoes – everything you would expect from a 'Mary Jane' but in patent leather with 90mm chunky high heels. Dresses: mid-price £159.

Kaliko (114) say they will dress you for work and for play. Check out their Bardot top. Dresses: mid-price £110.

Toast (103) is the place to go for the expensive, Bohemian look. They are very good on separates. Dresses: mid-price £120.

Phase Eight (123) has some nice jersey wear and lots of little jackets, boleros and shrugs. Dresses: mid-price £75.

Oxford's Sahara (46) branch is one of nine boutique shops founded by Suzy Coppersmith-Heaven. Suzy has created her own individual style which is elegant, but easy-to-wear, mix and match clothing. She says she uses Eastern techniques, but with Western designers. Her ranges are made by craftspeople and artisans and the emphasis is on comfort using materials that breathe. Many of the ranges on sale here complement the fuller figure. Look out for Grizas, Out of Xile and Masai. Dresses: mid-price £120.

Brora (131) is the place for fine Scottish Cashmere and beautiful clothing. Assistant manager, Tracy Brown enthused about the stock and her recent trip to the woollen mills at Howick in the wilds of Northumberland. She hopes also to go to Brora's other source of wool, Elgin. The soft water from the River Teviot helps creates the especially soft wool (rather like a fine whiskey). Up to five dyes are mixed to produce anyone of the many beautiful shades in their colour range. There is a nice selection of men's items, a baby and a children's section.

FOR THE BOYS

Ede and Ravenscroft Ltd (119), the gentleman's outfitters is the place to go when you decide to spoil the man in your life with undisguised lUxury. I was stopped in my tracks by a claret coloured, velvet smoking jacket with a black collar, scrumptious at £795. A small showcase displays Cashmere stockings owned by Warren Hastings, First Governor General of India 1779.

Shepherd and Woodward (109/113) occupies a large site just on the junction of Oriel Square with the High. Everything you can imagine to fit out a gentleman from country gear (they are big on Barbour) to about town outfits. Grandfathers can shop side by side with their grandsons and both will find what they want from traditional, thermal underware to pink bow ties. It also stocks the Zara Phillips range by Musto. Shepherd and Woodward sell and hire formal evening wear and supply gowns and regalia, both academic and for professional or livery companies. It also supplies school uniforms for all the Oxfordshire schools from its Summertown shop.

The Varsity Shop (Castells) (114) is part of the Shepherd and Woodward group and the shops are linked inside. It launched the modern necktie in 1870 and today you can buy a tie for every one of the 38 Oxford colleges, plus anything that can have a crest put on it, such as rugby shirts, cuff links etc.

Jack Wills (125) offers men's clothing with a 'preppy' look, including classic rowing blazers and Burlington lounge pants. I doubt if the majority of students could afford to shop there, but when you have made your money and get nostalgic for your school days, maybe that is the time to go.

SHOE SHOPS

Fitrite Shoes (48) offer cowboy boots and faux snakeskin men's shoes at a surprising £70. This is a great shop to browse in if you are a Country and Western fan.

Footprints (23) has a large range of trainers, boots and practical shoes. Look out for New Rock boots.

Sassi (55) is a ladies shoe shop, with the majority of shoes imported from Italy and Spain. These are quality shoes with attitude.

ALL THAT GLITTERS

Payne and Sons, silversmiths (131) was founded in 1790 by George Septimus Payne and, though it became a limited company in 1947, it is still run by members of the same family. It trades in modern and antique silverware, contemporary jewellery and is a major stockist of Georg Jensen, the Danish design company.

Reginald Davies silversmiths (34) is another old and trusted firm of jewellers, this business is run by the fifth generation of the family. It buys and sells second-hand jewellery and, in complete contrast, stocks items by the award winning Malcolm Appleby, an artist in precious metals.

Pia (16) offers fashion jewellery - with lots of freshwater pearls. Lots of the jewellery has little messages on it - stones with the words, wish, hope and dream on them. Or you might prefer symbolism - with a whale or elephant broach (silver, £25) . Pai also sells fashion handbags in both leather and fabric.

EATING AND DRINKING

It is worth buying something in Whittards (15) just for the pleasure of being served by manager, Tom Donaldson. Tom has managed this shop for 14 years and knows the likes and dislikes of his regular customers. Locals, academics and students rely on Whittards for their excellent teas and coffees to see them through the day. Visitors from abroad come back regularly, even if regular just means once a year. Some ring ahead to make sure their favourite brand will be in stock. I loved their new range of nursery rhyme mugs (£10). The Alice range still sells steadily and there is a good selection of tea pots.

Hotel Chocolat (132) was a joy to visit. Prices start from as little as £1 .95 for children's Tiddly Pots (chocolate buttons) and chocolate licks (a lolly) to £85 for a vast boxed set. I liked the 'Thank You' boxes of chocolates at £6.50 and the clear identification of types of chocolate. Manager, Jessica Williams told me the Oxford branch has been open for about 16 months, but people are still 'discovering' them.

The Old Bank Hotel (91-94) incorporates the restaurant, Quod - Chelsea Clinton's favourite Oxford restaurant when she studied here.

The Grand Cafe (84) offers Champagne teas by day and cocktails by night, all on the site of the old Frank Cooper's grocery shop where his wife, Sarah's recipe for orange marmalade made the family's fortunes.

Pattiserie Valerie (90) seduces you with their window display of confectionary. I could have sworn their Millefeuilles were three inches high, so I had to buy one to take home and measure - it proved to be 2% inches of confectioner's custard, layered with puff pastry and topped with fondant icing. In any case it is the most generous gateau I have ever come across.

Chiang Mai Kitchen (131a) on the junction with Kemp Hall Passage and At Thai (129a) offers authentic Thai dining and an express set menu respectively.

The Chequers Pub (131) and the Wheatsheaf (129) are pubs with a whiff of old Oxford about them set, as they are, in very old buildings.

The Mitre (17) has been standing proudly on the corner at the bottom of Turl Street since 1261. It is a reminder of the days when the High was full of coaching inns serving travellers. It still has the nooks and crannies you would expect in such an old building. These days it is a Beefeater Inn.

The Rose Tea Rooms (51) is the place for a traditional afternoon tea. Their scones will transport you back to Edwardian times.

Other food and drink outlets include Starbucks (127), All Bar One (124), QL Deli (48), Cafe Nero (14), Pizza Hut (15), Harvey's Sandwich Bar (58), Cafe Creme (67/68) veg/ vegan friendly, Taylors Deli (19), Queen's Lane Cafe (39-41) and Olive's Deli (42).

OXFORD SOUVENIRS

Fellows (137) sells good quality Oxford souvenirs, t-shirts, sweat shirts, mugs, key rings, pin badges and cuff links. They keep a good collection of little red phone boxes and pillar boxes. Banksy graffiti t-shirts are a very popular line.

Oxford Blue (106): is another souvenir shop on the junction of Queen's and the High.

ONE-OFF SHOPS

POD (86/87) is a zany, home accessories and lifestyle shop. It is the third branch of the company which opened in Bristol in 2001. I liked their stationery, especially their wedding planner books - lots of choice. Isa glassware, lots of colour. Look out for Orla Kiely mugs and storage jars struck me as being 1970s retro. Lastly, who could resist a gift from the Cowshed Knackered Cow range - worth it just for the name – which features room fragrances, travel candles and soap. A great place to look for presents.

Simply Sewing (43) offer alterations, repairs and dry cleaning. What a useful shop!

The British Red Cross Shop (44/45) has the usual selection of gifted items, clothes, books and such like, but in addition, a nice range of greeting cards and they also keep the Korbond range of Stitch and Sew products. Very handy if you need a reel of thread or pins and needles.

Neal's Yard (56) offers a full range of branded products and also has treatment rooms.

The High Street Barbers (38) are always busy, while Brothers Hair Salon (57) carries the environmentally friendly Aveda range of skin care products.

Antiques on High (85) has 25 dealers offering antiques, jewellery, pictures, books and collectables. It also houses a craft centre which includes work by members of the Oxfordshire Craft Guild. Particularly interesting is a stall run by Austin SherlawJohnson which offers second-hand sheet music and books on music.

There is a long-established branch of wine merchants Odd Bins (108), Scrivens Opticians (22) and Links Computers (33) which advertises a 'no fix, no fee' repair service.

ART AND BOOKS

The OUP Bookshop (116/117) sells the University of Oxford's own publications. Look out for the new A Very Short Introduction series with titles such as Consciousness by Susan Blackmore and Beauty by Roger Scruton, £7.99.

The University Shop (106) is the home of the definitive university products. Everything is of high quality and the majority of the stock has been commissioned by Oxford University. I liked the range of items from artist Katherine Stock. Katherine's images come on mugs, tea-towels and hand-towels. Look out for the Isis Ceramics range of blue and white china, reminiscent of willow pattern or Asian Pheasant, but with wonderful Oxford motifs by designer, Deborah Sears. This will be collector's items in the future.

Black Sheep Gallery (20) sells contemporary, limited edition, reproductions, including works by Rolf Harris and Sherree Valentine Daines.

Meller Merceaux, the Art Collector (104) was opened by Aidan Meller in June 2010, and sells cutting-edge contemporary and modern art. Well-known names such as Andy Warhol and Damien Hirst hang alongside up and coming names such as Jack Bradley and Ben Clarke.

THE DICKENSIAN END OF THE STREET

Mr Simms Olde Sweet Shoppe (52) is the sort of shop visitors might expect to find in Oxford but, up to a year ago, they would have been disappointed. Opening in February of last year and being part of a small, independent chain, this is every child's image of an old fashioned sweet shop. Shelf-upon-shelf of jars of sweets, stacks of chocolate, lollypops and oh, the selection of jelly beans! The cheapest ones were a small box for £1.29 going up to a large jar for £24.99. The manager, Chris Shackell, is an enthuastist and clearly enjoys his job.

A Plan Insurance (107) operates from a medieval hall house Grade II* listed. It has a vaulted undercroft, as does Magdalen College on the other side of the road.

Sanders of Oxford (104) stocks 30,000 original prints. Oxfordshire's contemporary artists have a platform here.

Northlight (36) is the brainchild of Pam Spurling, an interior designer by training, and sells Scandinavian homeware. Michelle Molyneaux and Claudia Gibbon run the shop and you can be sure of a warm welcome and sound advice. Reasonable priced gifts, including rotary candle holders which run on one tea light (£7.50). Children's wooden playthings include adorable mice in matchboxes. This shop is a real breath of fresh air.

Visiting Tranters Tobacconists (37) is like stepping back in time, not least because of the age of the premises (owned by Queen's College). There is an old fireplace and bread oven behind the counter - the bread oven seems to be home to Meerschaum pipes. Although they do sell cigarettes, the main concern is the selling of cigars and the understanding of these is the main passion of the manager, John Foot, who waxed lyrical about them. He knows his stock and anyone buying in earnest will be taken into what looks like a glass cupboard, but which is a temperature controlled man-sized humidor to make his selection. And the price of a single cigar? The cheapest in the shop would cost you £2 and the most expensive is, wait for it, £50. John says that you can buy a perfectly respectable cigar for between £8 and £14. This is a gentleman's shop in that it keeps up the old tobacconist's tradition of selling shaving gear (for wet shaving), hip flasks, cigarette lighters, cigar cutters and cases and, of course, humidors. Interestingly, this is the one shop in Oxfordshire in which it is legal to smoke.

Oxford Holographics (71) has been in the High for 27 years. Proprietor, Nick Cooper, admits to an archeological/anthropological background. The archaeology is born out in his considerable collection of fossils, minerals and stones. The anthropology is a bit more subtle, but it is one of those shops that the more you look, the more you realise how much they stock. Oddly enough holographs make up only a small percentage of Nick's sales these days but he is enthuses about his latest product, 3D shift lenticular portrait. He has one in the shop that shows three images of his mother-in-law, one as a child and two more adult ones. If there was one thing I would go back for it was the Buddhist Singing Bowls made in Kathmandu. These were used for meditation and contemplation. Prices range from as little as £6.50 for a very small bowl going up to £65 for a large one.

Hoyles Games Shop (72) is owned and run by Phillip Scaysbrook and has everything a board game enthusiast could possible want. Backgammon, Chess, Xiang Qi, (Chinese chess) many other board games, puzzles, jigsaws, juggling, cards, dice, magic and marbles.

All the top pen manufacturers are to be found at Pens Plus (69/70) - Parker, Lamy, Mont Blanc, Waterman, Pelikan and Sheaffer. If you want expert advice (or need a pen repaired) this is the place to come. You can even purchase a quill pen here.

TURL STREET

Turl Street is the most magical street in Oxford. When seen lamp-lit on a dark evening it reminds older folks of Narnia and the younger generation of Harry Potter's Diagon Alley. Turl Street runs between Broad Street and the High, starting at the corner of Blackwell's Music shop and coming out at the Mitre. It is an ancient throroughfare which people have used for 1,000 years or more. The name is a corruption of 'twirling gate' because there once was a gate with a pedestrian turnstile to control people entering and leaving the city.

THE SHOPS

Elmer Cotton is a classic university sports shop and has been in business since 1911. It is managed by Tim Holdforth who is a fount of knowledge about sports equipment, clothing and accessories. This is the place to go for functional sports clothes and shoes, equipment, team wear and club kits. I had to ask Tim about croquet sets – does he sell many? The sets sold are made by John Jacques, and range in price from £300 to £3,000. Elmer Cotton sells them to colleges, individuals, tourists, plus sales by mail order abroad, especially to American and to overseas universities. Opening times are: 9.00am-5.15pm, Monday to Saturday. Tel: 01865 241010.

On the corner of Market Street you will pass a set of empty premises (owned by the city council which has housed various restaurants and, until recently, the QI Club. It is a shame to see the empty windows, but then again, maybe it is just a front and this really is an entrance to the Ministry of Magic (Oxford branch).

Norah's Antiques is owned by Norah Brookes who opened her shop here ten years ago. I have always thought of it as the very pretty jewellers with a special line in miniature silver animals which are usually on show in the window. I have a soft spot for this shop because a friend once bought me a silver tortoise from it to mark the publication of a story of mine. Suffragette jewellery is another line they specialise in, purple, green and white being their colours and standing for dignity, purity and hope respectively. Amethysts, pearls and peridots were often chosen to make these pieces of jewellery. They have some nice pieces of old silver, for example, an elegant 1917 silver coffee pot by Eckleton at £950. In the more everyday price range I saw an attractive range of silver bookmarks with animal heads from £24-£27. Opening times are 10am-5.30pm Monday to Saturday, and 11.00am-4.30pm on Sunday. Tel: 01865 202323.

Oxfam has the second of its two shops devoted entirely to second-hand books next door. Everything is clearly categorised and they have a very good turnover. Opening times are 9.30am-5.30pm Monday to Saturday and 11.00am-5.00pm on Sundays. Tel. 01865 248310

The Missing Bean has been open just over a year and it is buzzing. Smart black leather stools set the tone. This espresso bar is a class act. The lowdown on the coffee is that they have a hand-roasted blend, exclusive to themselves. A Brazilian yellow bourbon bean, medium to dark roasted which is hand roasted and is described as earthy and robust, with a medium to heavy body from the Mogiana region of Brazil. You can also buy the coffee, beans or ground, to take home. A selection of sandwiches, toasted ciabattas and French pastries complement the drinks menu. Try their muffins for breakfast! Opening times are 8am-6.30pm Monday to Friday, 10am - 6.30pm on Saturdays and 10.30am - 5.30pm on Sundays. Tel. 01865 794886

Rowells diamond merchants was established in 1797. At one time it held a Royal Warrant, but that expired on the death of George VI in 1949. The last active member of the Rowell family died in 1985 - since then the business has been run by Stephen Pritchard and Mary Faulkner. There are some magnificent pieces of jewellery on display - no need for trips to London - the quality is all here. I drooled over a three-row diamond bracelet that had been worn at the 2010 Baftas and some drop diamond earring that had appeared in OK! magazine. I asked Mary Faulkner if she had any interesting stories. "Well," she said, "a customer brought in a sapphire and diamond cluster ring, that had been in the family for generations, to be sized down for her daughter-in-law to wear." Later, Mary received a phone call. She explained: "The caller said 'Are you sitting down? Does the customer realise what the ring you sent to us is worth?" It turned out that the stone was a Burmese sapphire, estimated value £80,000. "That was an exciting day!" said Mary. "The lovely thing is that the customer went ahead and said she would not tell her daughter-in-law in case she was afraid to wear it." I saw some gorgeous pearls on display and some classic retirement presents such as barometers and carriage clocks. Nothing is computerised and receipts are still handwritten. Mary reminded me that they sell items such as a sliver pendant chain for as little as £20. So the message is 'please drop in and do not feel intimidated'. Opening times are 9.00am-5.00pm, Monday to Saturday.

Walters of Oxford are gentlemen's outfitters. A barber's operates on their second floor - very successfully - it is a paying concern in its own right but fits very happily into the 'gentlemen's club' atmosphere of the store. The wooden floorboards creak as customers go up and down stairs but, at the same time sales and stock control are flashing through the computerised tills and credit cards are being processed. Classic names such as Aquascutum and Hackett surround you. Alterations can be done in a matter of hours, if need be. This is a place where gentleman shop, obtaining their alumni discounts, having items delivered to their colleges and generally feel that all is well in their world. Adrian Palfreyman, the managing director, told me that Walters really expanded when the former owners realised that many of the graduates they were serving were going off to 'run the Empire' after leaving Oxford. They started offering a uniform and equipment service advertising as 'Walters' services as 'Outfitters for Rhodesia, Nyasaland and Tanganyika' in their 'Tropical Outfit Departments'. These goods were packed up in tea chests and shipped off to other continents to arrive in advance of their purchasers. I couldn't resist buying a couple of lovely scarves as presents before I left this shop – it is worth making a purchase to experience the excellent standard of service. Opening times are Monday to Saturday, 9.00am-5.30pm. Tel. 01865 241848

Ducker and Son make bespoke shoes for ladies and gentleman. Established in 1898 by young Edward Ducker this establishment was one of 20 shoemakers in Oxford at that time. Today, you would have to travel to the West End of London to find the next nearest one. Customers included JRR Tolkien, Evelyn Waugh and T E Lawrence - a pair of whose boots are on permanent display in the shop. The business is managed today by Bob and Isobel Avery. Are there any Duckers still around? "Yes," says Isobel, there are two sleeping partners in the business who live in Devon." These days, the likes of Rowan Atkinson and Jeremy Clarkson have had shoes made here. "We treat everyone the same," said Bob. "Every customer is a valued customer." There are shelves of shoes, each pair with its own handwritten label, and an entry in a green and brown leather ledger, which sits besides the shoe-history book on the shop desk. Above this are rows of older ledgers, dating back to 1898. The whole place reeks of leather and history. Isobel said that since all the Harry Potter tours started, following on the filming in Oxford, she has had children with their noses pressed at the window asking if this is the Wand Shop! On a more contemporary note, lovely colourful socks and scarves are on sale and Duckers sell a lot of them abroad by mail order. Opening times are Monday to Friday 9.00am-5.30pm, Saturday 10.00am-5.30pm. Tel: 01865 242461.

Turl Street News has been established for 25 years and offers more than your average newsagent, although it is, of course, stacked with all the usual papers, magazines and accessories you would expect. It also sells Oxford souvenirs, t-shirts and offers a thesis binding service.

The Whisky Shop is part of a chain, and has been in Turl Street since November, 2006. Manager, Peter Hack, will help you choose a present sure to please a whisky connoisseur, even if you know nothing about the stuff. In fact a chat with Peter is an education in itself. Here you can purchase limited edition bottles of whisky with the signatures of the head distiller and the head bottler on each label. The cheapest item in the shop would be a jar of whisky marmalade at £3.25. Alternatively, you can go up to collectors' items at more than £1,000 a bottle. There is a vast selection of miniatures, attractive gift pack selections and Peter could help you select a gift to impress from a small independent distillery from between £40 to £50. It would be from a single barrel. You will also find honey and shortbread among other classic gifts from over the border. Opening times are Tuesday-Saturday, 10.00am-5.30pm. Tel: 01865 202279.

At Mahogany I caught up with one of the four directors, Antony Licata. The four directors, Antony, Richard Thompson, Colin Greaney and Russell Barker constantly rotate round their branches seeing their regular clients on set days and keeping in touch at the coal face of each establishment. Mahogany is a local success story. The business started out 31 year ago when its first branch opened around the corner in Market Street. Everyone thinks of Mahogany as having their own way of cutting hair. The point is that everyone who works there has learned to cut to very high standards in one of their own salons or, more likely these days, at their training academy in Mayfair. They now have branches in London, Manchester and Sydney, Australia. Mahogany has recently launched a new range of hair products, called Essensity, made by Schwarzkopf. Every product in the range is made from pure, certified organic essences guaranteed free from ammonia, silicones, formaldehyde and parabens. First appointment is at 8.45am – last appointment 4.30pm, Monday to Friday (late night Thursday, last appOintment 6.30pm).

Saturday, 8.45am - last appointment 4.30pm. Tel: 01865 248143.

Andrew Walker, artist and picture framer, runs The High Street Framing Workshop. His premises were in the High Street for many years before he moved to the basement premises next door to Duckers in Turl Street. I exaggerate slightly, but it was like stepping back in to a television adaptation of a Dickens novel. Andrew not only frames pictures, but will paint to commission. He does a lot of work for the surrounding colleges, leaving or retirement presents being the obvious type of order. Opening times on enquiry, or try calling during normal business hours. Tel: 01865 243419.

Scriptum only adds to the sense of enchantment in this street. Run by Azeem Zakria, the style is based on his love of shops in Venice. It is a treasure trove of delightful gifts of high quality and infinite imagination. Select your purchases, with Italian Opera being gently played in the background, from hand-stitched leather-bound journals, dip pens, quills, Murano glass pens, rare inks, sealing wax, antique prints and, if you are planning to attend a masked ball (shades of Poirot) or simply want to decorate your room, Azeem keeps Oxfordshire's largest stock of Venetian masks. He also sells fine stationery and handmade paper (sourced from the oldest working paper mill in Europe) and upstairs you can enjoy browsing through an eclectic collection of second-hand books, plus some selection contemporary publications. I was much taken with a range of leather cases for iPhones, which like other leather items can be engraved with initials or crests. Wedding stationery is a speciality. I love the fact that they stock cards and other items hand-made by individual craftsmen and women. It is so hard for these talented people to find retail outlets and it was almost inspiring to see Azeem get out his cheque book and pay a lady on the spot for her stock! The cheapest item in the shop is a set of Italian pencils for £3.95 and they sell gift vouchers for £5, £10 and £15. If you are lucky you may be served by the ever-helpful and delightful Holly. Opening times are: Monday to Saturday, 9.00am-5.30pm. Sunday, 11.00am – 5.00pm. Tel: 01865 200042

Past Times is the only 'chain' shop in the street, but it fits in well with its retro style gifts and is a handy place for presents and cards. Opening times are Monday-Saturday, 9.30am-5.30pm, Sunday, 11.00am-5.00pm. Tel: 01865 202279.

Celebration is the party shop on the corner of Turl Street and Market Street. It stocks everything you could need for your office party - plus some things you may not even have thought of Next door to them is the original Mahogany hairdresser and tucked in between this and the first entrance to the Covered Market is Bike Zone, that very good and useful bicycle shop which featured heavily in one of the earlier episodes of Inspector Morse. In fact bits of Turl Street have appeared in many a Morse or Lewis story.

So, step through that now invisible twirling gate into the delightful shopping experience with all the benefits of good, up-to-date stock, but with equally good, old-fashioned service.