Writing last week of my birthday dinner at Loch Fyne -- the restaurant, not the Scottish lake -- I mentioned another birthday 'do' I'd enjoyed five days earlier at the Lemon Tree, in Woodstock Road. I felt unsure about whether I should describe the meal, because I devoted a column to a splendid dinner there earlier in the year (another birthday as it happens). But what the hell! This is my favourite place in Oxford, so why shouldn't I sing its praises again?

Whereas we went 'mob-handed' -- eight of us -- back in March, we were only three on the day that Rosemarie's mother, Olive, notched up another anniversary. A few days later, there were many more drinking her health when she hosted a Sunday lunchtime party at the White House in Botley Road, where the staff produced a superb hot buffet which we enjoyed in the garden during a rare burst of sunshine in our dismal August. I imported a touch of sunny Spain to the start of our Lemon Tree dinner by choosing a glass of sherry, rather than a cocktail, for an aperitif. (This was a night when the car stayed at home.). Olive joined me, but went for a nutty amontillado rather than the crisp fino I picked. Both were £2.50. Rosemarie had a glass of South African Chenin Blanc (£3.50), but remembered mid-way through it that she'd previously rated the Chilean unoaked chardonnay (Finca Lucia, 2003), rather more highly. We ordered a bottle of this (£13.95) for our table, to which we were led very shortly afterwards -- delighted to find it close to open French doors on this clammy night.

Olive made a robust start to her meal with Clonakilty black pudding, with spring onion mash and mustard dressing (£5.95), while Rosemarie had a bowl of superb steamed mussels (£6.95), with the bitter flavour of saffron adding a special touch to the garlic, chilli, wine and cream of the accompanying broth.

I first ordered a plate of oak-smoked salmon -- then quickly came to my senses, rushed after the waiter towards the kitchen and asked to switch to Torbay scallops (£11.50). Scallops here, frankly, are not to be missed. They come in threes -- you would hardly want more -- grilled with lemon and herb butter and still attached to the shells in which they have grown to such fat, juicy proportions. The orange coral is present, as it has often not been lately at other restaurants I have visited. I hope we are are not starting to ape the Americans who tend to chuck it away, probably through squeamishness about what are, in fact, the bivalve's reproductive glands. I continued my meal with a superb juicy fillet steak (price, £19.50; supplier, Field Farm, Appleton.) It came with truffle and mushroom butter, a little red onion tart and a pile of chips. I ordered a side dish of spinach (£2.75). Olive had slow cooked leg of lamb (£18.50), with confit garlic, red wine and rosemary sauce and -- a novel Italian touch -- caponata, the classic Sicilian blend of aubergines, salad and tomatoes.

Rosemarie had a luxurious burger of minced steak, with dill pickle tomato and chips (£9.50). By this time we had moved to a punchy Rioja -- Castillo de Clavijo, Crianza 1999.

Olive alone had room for more-- a gooey hot chocolate pudding (£6.95) with marinated cherries and ice cream made from bananas and muscovado (a dark cane sugar). It proved a fine birthday treat.

CHRISTOPHER GRAY