I have been hobbling around the wine circuit this last fortnight on a pair of crutches while I wait for a torn ligament to heal. (And no, it was not an alcohol-induced injury or a riding accident).

It has been a right nuisance. Well, at least I thought so until some obnoxious Neanderthal man — that I’d never met before — came up to me at the recent Chablis tasting, wrapped his arm around me and called me a ‘little bunny’.

Suffice it to say, the crutch was a handy tool in creating the necessary distance between him and me. There is no question that a little too much alcohol can really bring out the worst in people.

Happily, there are plenty of us who are able to temper our intake, retain our credibility and get on with the job of professionally assessing the wines in front of us. It was only a short limp away from Mr Numpty that I came across a flight of wines that I considered to be among the finest at the tasting.

Jean-Claude Bessin’s wines (all available from Berry Brothers & Rudd www.bbr.com) are understated, elegant beauties that have a purity of fruit that I love.

The tasting started with the Chablis Vielles Vignes 2007 (£13.25) which is made from 45-year-old vines and it has noticeable depth of flavour and a crisp, mineral texture. The Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2007 was still in its infancy but shared the clarity of fruit with mineral and smoky notes.

Since 2004, Bessin has separated out a small parcel of his 1er Cru Fourchaume vineyards that he makes into a wine he calls 1er Cru Fourchaume ‘La Pièce au Comte’. The significant difference is that the vines are older and the result is a more opulent Chablis wine. Normally, I am less keen on more lush Chablis — nothing other than a personal preference — but I loved this because the richness was not at the expense of Chablis’ hallmark steely, angular qualities.

I had the good fortune to taste both the 2006 (£18.95) and the 2007 (£24.50) and, whilst the 2007 has the forward aromas that the vintage offers, the 2006 was my preference because its vibrancy seemed that much more authentic. Both though were tantalisingly good and will certainly benefit from some more time to mature.

The treats did not stop there with the Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2007 (£33) topping off the tasting. It is a bit mean to taste a wine of such grandeur when still so young and it was really only showing glimpses of its undeniable promise. It will grow into something very special indeed.

I know, I know, I know that we must all take care not to overdo things on the wine front and, if ever you need a motive to drink more moderately, then I suggest you try the Bessin wines; they are too expensive to drink in haste or to excess and there is 50 times the experience that you are likely to find in wines a third of the price.

And, if you do have any Neanderthal tendencies, you will keep them well hidden from disapproving women like me!

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