Every Thursday morning as 9am approaches, a long queue begins to form outside St Leonard’s Church Hall in the centre of Eynsham. When the main door opens, those waiting rush into the hall to pick out their favoured purchases before someone else gets there first.

There’s a great buzz as people dart round the room gathering the things they want to buy. Tables originally laden with fresh garden and allotment produce, home-made cakes, pies, preserves and savouries empty within minutes. Many of those who have managed to find everything they are looking for pay for their goods then stay on to relax with a cup of tea or coffee and a chat.

It’s a great village event.

I am talking about Eynsham’s weekly Country Market (originally the Women’s Institute Market), which celebrated its 25th anniversary in May.

Oxfordshire has 11 country markets – the oldest being Banbury. The late Mollie Harris, author, broadcaster, and much-loved village resident, officially opened Eynsham in May 1984. One remarkable thing is that out of the 41 original producers, four are still bringing their cakes, vegetables and jams to the market. Original members who don’t bake now, still attend the market – but as customers.

The difference between a farmers’ market and a country market is that the country market is open to anyone over 16 with suitable produce they have baked, grown or made themselves. It costs just five pence to become a shareholder and therefore a producer for life. A small percentage is taken from the selling price of each item to cover the market running expenses; the rest is paid to the producer on a monthly basis. Becoming a shareholder provides producers with full Product and Public Liability Insurance while they are undertaking work on behalf of the market.

All the rules and important information required is contained within the Market Handbook, which all producers have to obtain and read.

The other difference between farmers’ markets and country markets is that all country markets are run co-operatively. No one has their own table. All goods are put on sale together, like-with-like. You will discover a table of fabulous home made preserves, standing alongside another displaying cakes and breads and others groaning with fresh fruit and vegetables. Hand-made craft items, such as hand-carved walking sticks, knitted items or hand-painted greetings cards, have their own table too.

The other interesting thing about country markets is that there’s no rule governing minimum quantities. All participants are advised to start small, just bring a couple of cakes, or a few bags of freshly dug new potatoes, if they wish, so that they can gauge their popularity.

As to price, well country markets have a formula to help producers work out a fair selling price which gives a good return for their labour, but also provides the customers with a reasonably priced item. The markets’ motto is ‘Sell the best – eat the rest’. And that’s what the producers do, though sometimes any cakes remaining at the end of the morning (and that is seldom) are often swapped between members.

Talented men and women who bake regularly for the market (yes, men can be producers too) begin to build up a following of regular customers, who place a weekly order for their goods.

Many markets, including the Eynsham Country Market, operate a hamper service too. Naturally hampers have to be ordered in advance to ensure that they contain everything the customer needs. These make great gifts, particularly for the elderly who once cooked everything themselves, but are now too frail to do so. Hampers can even be delivered locally for a small charge.

Arranging delivery is easy and operates throughout the UK. All you have to do is phone Country Markets’ head office, 01246 261508 or e-mail info@country-markets.co.uk or order from your local market.

Market member Pat Atkins, from Eynsham, says it’s thanks to the high standards and dedication of the producers that the village market is so popular.

She said: “We are also fortunate in having a loyal customer-base and some young producers, athough our chairman is in his nineties”

Pat also feels the location is important. “Fortunately we operate in the centre of the village in an attractive hall. This is a great asset,” she said.

One of the original members, Jane McHarg, who sat round table discussing the viability of a market 25 years ago, believes its popularity is also due to the atmosphere it generates. She sees it as a great place for the community to come together and share produce that has been lovingly grown, made or cooked within the locality.

“Where else can you buy a lettuce that has been harvested just an hour before it goes on sale, or enjoy a cake that really has been baked at home with local produce?” she said.

Every now and again Eynsham holds extra markets in the Village Square opposite the church, or outside the Emporium in Mill Street. Members also supply the teas at Eynsham Carnival and other village events that require refreshments.

To celebrate the Market’s 25 years, members held a celebratory lunch last month, which in true village style was cooked and prepared by those attending. Because each member cooked their own speciality, it proved a fantastic meal.

I was lucky enough to attend that event, which proved as tasty and enjoyable as anything I have been served in top restaurants. Indeed, as I looked round the hall, watching the way everyone worked together to make it a success, I found myself feeling very proud to know such an enterprising crowd and be part of a very active village community.