The Lords of the Manor, Upper Slaughter

Such a vision was mine in the last stages of the 40-minute journey from Oxford to the lovely village of Upper Slaughter for dinner at the hotel, the Lords of the Manor, that has helped to contribute to its fame as a tourist destination for the past 40 years.

Dating back to the mid-17th century, though greatly expanded in later years, the building at one time saw service as the local rectory (those Victorian parsons certainly knew what was required in terms of creature comforts, as Anthony Trollope so often reminded us). Opened as a hotel in 1972, it has belonged since 1997 to the Munir family (who also own The Feathers in Woodstock). They treat the property as a “second home”, supplying tender loving care which is evident throughout, and not least in the garden.

We had time to revel in the beauties of the grounds when, at the suggestion of general manager Paul Thompson, we began our evening with a drink at one of the outdoor tables overlooking the wide sweep of greenery. “Some fizz?” On such an evening, amid such splendour, the idea could hardly be bettered. Glasses of Laurent-Perrier, a champagne noted for its refreshing liveliness, were ideal for the occasion as we tasted the first offerings from chef Richard Edwards’s kitchen (nibbles including heavenly smoked salmon risotto balls) and addressed the matter of our dinner order.

This was taken by the restaurant manager Gennaro, whose surname, Effuso, struck me as most appropriate. This was not, I hasten to add, because of any effusiveness in his demeanour but because he comes from Naples, in the shadow of Vesuvius. Effusive, applied to rock, means formed by an outpouring of lava, as I remember dimly from long-ago geology lessons. Sommelier Paulo Capone was helpful, too — and bang on target, if I dare to say so in the light of his name — offering his personal choices of wine by the glass to accompany each of the dishes on the a la carte dinner menu. These are set out in the wine list. In most cases we followed his suggestions, and found his judgment excellent.

Moving into the dining room, we found ourselves ideally accommodated at a table at the far end (perfect to gawp at everybody else) to which an amuse bouche of pea panacotta, with a topping of parmesan foam, was promptly delivered.

Very soon, too, we made our acquaintance with the superb home-baked mini baguettes that were an important feature of a meal that would otherwise have been, for one such as I, a little starch-light. They were so delicious (as was the brown bread) that we gobbled though a second basket. Our enthusiasm had lots to do with the accompanying pyramid of smoked butter, something else for which we have to thank the French.

My first course was lobster, consisting of a beautifully presented (see picture below) deep-fired fritter of claw meat, alongside two chunks of poached tail, with blobs of potato mousse in between, each topped with a generous dollop (its cost considered) of Oscietra caviar, second in price only to Beluga and, some think, even better. The gribiche ‘dressing’ of hard-boiled egg yolk, herbs and capers was in fact a carpet running beneath the whole delicious assembly.

Rosemarie had salmon — citrus-cured cylinders of it, one encased in pastry, and offered with a cube of beetroot, horseradish and potatoes. We had glasses of Kleinkloof chenin blanc from South Africa’s Western Cape, a suitably citrussy wine.

With the ever-enticing prospect of turbot on offer, my main course could be nothing other. This piece of braised fish was served on a base of cooked iceberg lettuce (there, the brutes are of some use) with Cornish crab, severely al dente farfalle pasta and truffle butter sauce. Wonderful — and again Paulo’s wine selection proved ideal, being Puglia’s fruity Bombino Bianco.

For Rosemarie, there were two ways with lamb — braised shoulder and rounds of lightly roasted loin, a tempting pink. Adding further colour to the plate were juicy peas and girolles peeping from beneath a white foam. The glories of her pudding that followed can be seen from accompanying photograph below: a warm chocolate tart with cherries (some in the form of a sorbet) and pistachios. She drank an intensely flavoured, sweet ruby red, Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Allegrini, 2010.

I selected cheeses from a well-stocked trolley — Cotswold smoked, Stinking Bishop (as ever, aptly named), Mrs Bell’s Blue (a salty ewe’s milk cheese from Yorkshire) and Sister Sarah, a mild goat’s cheese from West Sussex. A luscious sauternes (Chateau Cameron 2007) matched admirably.

Discouraged by the definite evening chill from joining other diners out on the terrace, we moved into an elegant lounge for coffee, which was served with a assortment of chocolates, petit fours and macaroons.

This was living like a lord indeed.

Upper Slaughter, near  Bourton-on-the-Water, Gloucestershire         GL54 2JD
01451 820243
lordsofthemanor.com

Parking: In a car park at the rear of the property, to which staff will happily take your car from the front door if you wish
 

The people: General manager Paul Thompson, chef Richard Edwards, pictured below
 

Make sure you try the...    Pretty nearly everything, which is what you get if you try the £75 tasting menu, which must be ordered by the whole table of diners and demands a whole evening of attentive delight. Matching wines to accompany each course is £49.                   Or else it’s £69 each for three courses, with starters including citrus cured salmon, ballotine of foie gras and quail, mains such as roast squab pigeon, fillet of beef and braised cheek, and stone bass; and desserts ranging from passion fruit cannelloni, raspberry souffle and strawberry salad.
 

In ten words:
This is luxury you can afford: live like a lord!