The Cherwell Boathouse

According to Mr Greedy’s latest temperature app it was 28 degrees in our bedroom at midnight on Tuesday. It was hotter than a chilli- eating competition in Madras and I promptly woke up the next morning and rang The Cherwell Boathouse to book/beg or steal a table for the following evening. Because if we’re going to sweat, we might as well do it in style, and there’s nowhere more stylish than this hidden riverside establishment.

“We’re terribly busy at the moment but I’m sure we can sort something out,” came back the hot, rather harassed reply. Of course they’re busy. In terms of al fresco dining The Cherwell Boathouse is built for summertime, and regardless of it being a weekday evening was unsurprisingly packed out.

Luckily, a breeze had permeated the sticky humidity of the previous day when we arrived and sauntered down that curious hidden pathway off Bardwell Road to emerge into a scene worthy of any Seurat painting. Punters thronged the river, by this time of the evening mainly worse for wear, soaked to the skin, laughing merrily and trying desperately to moor. The arched bridge in the distance framed a couple embracing in a picture-postcard scene of nauseating proportions and the diners were packed in, in their droves.

Waiting staff rushed in and out of the kitchens trying to keep this hedonistic crowd in food and wine, their clientele being drunk on summertime and the ability to finally enjoy it. In fact, the sheer, joyous relief of being able to sit outside and watch the revelry unfolding while drinking cold rosé wine from an ice bucket was almost too much for me and I clutched on to the menu for dear life, to avoid getting overly emotional.

The menu was equally as comforting, wonderful ethereal summer flavours evident in every dish. But there was no rush as we sat on a prime table outside the front, rather than the separate outdoor eating area adjacent which was also heaving, because there being so much to take in. Punting ends at 9pm or thereabouts when everyone docks, which kept us entertained for long enough for our drinks to arrive, and bread to nibble.

But my first taste of the goats cheese summer pudding with horseradish ice cream (£6.50) brought everything to a rapid halt, the evening being put on hold as I savoured every detail of the delicate and beautifully constructed dish. The purple and white sponge-like sliver of summer pudding, looking more like a bread mille-feuille than the usual round English creation. How it worked so well is presumably down to the artistry of chef Nick Welford because apart, the ingredients were unlikely, but together were magical, the tiny peashoots’ tickle finishing it off perfectly. Summer on a plate.

I knew at that point the meal couldn’t get any better, but I was willing to plough on. The Cornish crab, Severn and Wye smoked salmon tian, pea shoots and caviar dressing for £9.50 was another huge summer success, the small round tian of muted colours and flavours perfectly matching the scene that played out in front of us. And the lobster bisque with chive and cognac cream (£7.50) was beautifully balanced.

The meal progressed in an equally entrancing manner, the tomato fondue feuillete — turning out to be a puff pastry tart with robust flavours, unusual but enjoyable nonetheless. The new season rump of lamb, aubergine caviar, parisienne potatoes, sauté baby courgettes with sauce vierge (£21.50) hit the spot, as did the pan-fried line-caught fillet of stone bass, white bean, morel and asparagus fricassee, although the rather measly portion of fish was slightly overpowered by the fragrantly silky sauce.

And then the lemon brûlée (£6.25). What can I say? Perfection. The fresh, subtle lemon zest flavour was so summery it defied belief as I ignored the troughing noises of the men diving into their cheese plate so appreciatively, as I ate every last spoonful covertly.

Opening times: Lunch 12pm-2pm, 12pm-2.30pm weekends. Dinner 6pm-9.30pm.
Parking: In Bardwell Road
Key personnel: Young and talented chef Nick Welford. Owned and run today by John Verdin. Restaurant manager and sommelier is Frenchman
Brice Guibert
Make sure you try the...    SET: Two courses £21.50, three courses £26.75.
In ten words:
Don’t go anywhere else this summer. Oxford     to a T.

That was the true beginning of summer for me, that wonderfully hedonistic mix of incredible food, delicious wine and that quintessential Oxford scene that warms the previously frost-bitten cockles of our English hearts. Summer is finally here.