The Manor at Weston-on-the-Green

More champagne, Madam?” our impeccable barman asked. “I could get used to this,” I thought as I sipped another glass and stared in awe at the opulent surroundings.

Someone’s ancestors gazed down at us from every newly-painted wall, and old-school refinement was evident in every detail.

Yes, Weston Manor has had a massive refurb job, whose budget apparently rivalled the economy of a small African country, and included the guest rooms, the gardens, the kitchens, and the hotel’s interior. A new chef, retrained staff and head-hunted managers meant this should be somewhere to shout about, a must-go-to Oxfordshire location.

As we were led by our waiter into the Tudor wood-panelled dining room to enjoy the five-course taster menu, I began to lose myself in the ambience of silver-service and waiters at every turn.

The amuse bouche placed at our table in the bar had already set the scene food-wise. I remember in particular the tasty, stocky little squares of ham hock being ferried enthusiastically into our mouths as we ordered.

The hall, however beautiful it is, was sadly lacking in acoustics though, so the few other table’s occupants were whispering away to each other, worried about their voices carrying. We had no such inhibitions and continued to enjoy ourselves regardless of the unfortunate volume levels. Apparently a sound and light expert is due in soon so this particular peccadillo should be eradicated by the time you read this, because it does rather snatch the hearty soul out of a place.

We all went for the taster menu, one vegetarian out of four, and first up was a wild mushroom soup with truffle oil for all. Very nice but without the depth I was expecting. Then an excellent pigeon course, which was beautifully cooked. It was our vegetarian friend who came a cropper during this, the second round, because her goat’s cheese risotto was so stodgy and claggy she left it, desperate for some fresh, seasonal veg to liven it up a bit.

Then an extraordinary glass of crushed ice appeared, to cleanse our palates apparently, which resembled a hush puppy. Considering it was below zero outside and trying to snow, no one wanted anything that cold. A spoon of sorbet on a teaspoon would have been more fitting perhaps?

The venison came next, by which time the doubt had begin to set in. We had asked for it medium rare, and it came well done, and was obviously overcooked. The accompanying gnocchi then astonished our herbivore to a stunned silence as she stared inexplicably at the brown baked parcels that resembled fig rolls and the dots of accompanying sauce, rather than the creamy delicious concoction she’d been expecting. It too remained untouched, unsurprisingly, and we all tried some and agreed it was not only unappetising but inedible. What also perturbed her was the menu planning. Who wants to eat risotto and gnocchi on the same night? All those carbs and not a vegetable in sight.

A chocolate terrine finished off the meal, which was nice and sweet and chocolatey, but utterly unmemorable, and then some good cheese. So there we were — job done, terribly disappointed, our discontent seeping across the dining room palpably like a puddle.

What’s to say? Let’s hope it improves because the venue and refurbishment deserve and need more from the kitchens. More than that and I am uncharacteristically tight-lipped. Perhaps a more positive slant would be that things can only get better.

Opening times: Lunch served in restaurant every day 12-2pm and dinner every day 6-9.30pm.  Meals served in the bar all day.
n Parking: Sweeping drive and plenty of parking
n Key personnel: New executive chef Tyrone MacConnell, below
n Make sure you try the... Manor Tea – A selection of five finger sandwiches, freshly-baked scones with Upper Norton Jersey Clotted Cream, a selection of handmade jams, English pastries and The Manor Brûlée – £22 per person including tea or coffee. Or slow-roasted Gloucestershire belly of pork with black pudding and Granny Smith – £21
n In ten words:
Like all my school reports; there is room for improvement