At the risk of another lashing in the letters column for daring to buy ready meals from Marks & Spencer, I own up today to the purchase (as part, I think, of a £10 ‘dine-in’ deal) of the main course dish whose packet can be seen on the left.

I invite my readers to consider what might be expected from a product described as “beef with caramelised onions & gruyère crumb”.

Most might think, surely, that beef would prove to be the principal ingredient. I thought so, too, and I was surprised when I turned out to be wrong.

The dish, when served, looked more like a potato gratin, with a few pieces of beef in the mix.

Turning to the back of the packet I found that the list of ingredients was led by potatoes, which make up a full 30 per cent of the dish. Only 20 per cent of it is beef, with onions (14 per cent) not far behind.

On the face of it, there would appear to be a good case for accusing M&S of misrepresenation.