Derry-Londonderry: What's in a name for UK City of Culture?

John McNulty grins as he surveys the scene from atop the imposing city walls which encircle his home city.

“It’s beautiful isn’t it?” he says. “Of course, the big question is what to call it. Some call it Derry, some insist on Londonderry... but I prefer Legen-Derry!”

It’s a line you hear often in this far-flung outpost of the United Kingdom, hard up against the Eire border in the shadow of Donegal. Peaceful it may be, friendly too, but politics is never far from the surface.

Shakespeare’s Juliet Capulet famously uttered in frustration: “What’s in a name?” And the same question could be asked of this historic port at the mouth of the Foyle, which officially goes under the diplomatically double-barelled moniker Derry-Londonderry.

“My favourite name is the Maiden City,” John goes on. “So, called because these walls have stood for 400 years – and have never been breached!”

A walking tour with John is a highpoint of a visit to this city, which is finally earning the recognition it deserves after decades of strife. With its walls, cathedral, ornate chapels, tidy gardens and riverside setting it has all the elements of a classic tourist destination, but with one notable exception: the crowds.

However Derry-Londonderry (yes, it’s a mouthful, but it’s important not to upset sensibilities) has made a virtue out of its troubled past. On streets once filled with rioting youths and flak-jacketed soldiers, camera-toting tourists wander, snapping pictures of political murals, Irish tricolours, Union flags and the red hand of Ulster.

“You always know whether you’re in a Loyalist or Catholic neighbourhood,” says John, in a sing-song Donegal accent. “You just have to look at the pavements!” He’s right. Looking down from the walls to our left, the kerbs are painted in stripes of red, white and blue; the houses festooned with strings of patriotic coloured bunting – carnival decorations without the party.

From the other side of the wall, over an expanse of park towards the infamous Bogside, the predominant colours are the green, white and orange of the Republic.

It was on these streets that one of the darkest episodes in the city’s history occurred. On January 1972, 26 unarmed civilians were shot by British soldiers. Thirteen died outright and one other some months later. The incident saw a huge influx of support for the IRA and has never been forgotten. It may, however, finally have been forgiven – by some at least. In 2010 Prime Minister David Cameron issued a formal apology for the atrocity following the 12 year-long Saville Inquiry into what occurred that day. Closure, it seems, has come at last.

Huge murals depicting Bloody Sunday, and other iconic republican icons (Armalite rifles outstretched, dustbin lids being clashed and petrol bombs being hurled by gasmask-clad youths) still dominate the streets, along with the famous gable end informing visitors that they are ‘now entering Free Derry’, but the city has moved on. The ‘People’s Gallery’ as this extraordinary collection of political art is now referred to, also calls for peace and, above all, sanity. There is real hope in the air – on both sides of the green peace fence which still divides the two communities. The most prominenant expression of the city’s new spirit is the Peace Bridge, which spans the Foyle. A remarkable piece of design, its sweeping form appears to change as one crosses, its spans ultimately crossing, like two arms united in friendship. It’s a powerful image and has unsurprisingly been adopted by the city’s fathers for its year as City of Culture.

For a town with a cultural life this rich, it seems almost redundant to need a year in the cultural spotlight, but it has provided a boost to its already impressive live music, drama and arts scenes. It has brought in visitors too – many of whom will have been no doubt surprised at its gentle beauty and the savage grandeur of its natural surroundings: a landscape of wild beaches, rugged mountains, waterfalls and wild moors. That scenery can best be appreciated from the railway line which links the city to Belfast, a line described by Michael Palin as among the most beautiful in the world.

Cultural events this year have included the All-Ireland Fleadh Cheoil: a 10-day festival of music and dancing. Still to come is the Rock Out at Rocktober metal festival, a GymFusion gymnastics festival, and, from November 28 to December 1, the Lumiere light festival.

More exciting still is the city’s hosting of this year’s Turner Prize – all shortlisted works on view in a gallery on the vast site of the British Army’s former Ebrington Barracks – a further reminder of the Maiden City’s headlong rush to peace and stability. It is only the third time the prize has been held outside Tate Britain in London since its inception in 1984 and the first time it has left England. The works are on display until the winner is announced in early December The best place to absorb the city’s cultural, historic and natural splendour is from its most stylish hotel, Everglades, overlooking the Foyle, close to the Ebrington redevelopment site, and just a mile from the city centre. The hotel is as famous for its restaurant as its four-star accommodation. It’s Grill Restaurant pulls in foodies from miles around and is acclaimed for its use of locally-sourced produce (a magnificent ‘Ulster fry’ of Honeybee sausages from County Down, Moyallon dry cured bacon, Antrim black and white puddings, and mid-Ulster mushrooms all washed down with Armagh apple juice warrants a visit alone).

The City of Culture 2013 may not have quite decided what to call itself, but that quirky charm only makes it more fascinating. It certainly won’t get in the way of a great trip. After all, as Romeo’s lover quipped, ‘a rose by any other name would smell as sweet’.

The facts

Getting there: Fly direct to Derry-Londonderry by Ryanair from Stansted, or to Belfast by Air Lingus or Easy Jet from Gatwick, then take the train (translink.co.uk/Services/NI-Railways)

Getting around: Walk. The city is easily coverable on foot. Or taxi – they are uncannily cheap.

Stay and eat: The Everglades Hotel. Part of Northern Ireland’s Hastings Hotels group, which also includes Belfast’s famous Europa and Culloden. Nightly rates start at £95 on a bed and breakfast basis based on two people sharing a superior double room this October. Price includes complimentary wi-fi in the public areas and a taxi into the city centre on behalf of TaxiCo. (hastingshotels.com, 028 7132 1066)

Information: For more details on travelling on the island of Ireland, go to ireland.com

For Northern Ireland go to discovernorthernireland.com

For more on Derry-Londonderry City of Culture events, go to cityofculture2013.com