Lapping up the real Santa land

It was little more than a week after Christmas and the tinsel and fairy lights had been consigned to the attic for another year.

So it felt strange to be heading off on a trip to see Father Christmas, at home in Lapland.

I have to say, while I was looking forward to the splendour of snow-steeped forests, pretty reindeer and cute huskies, I wasn’t so keen to be surrounded by elves and whatnot so soon after the tinkly Christmas musak had only just stopped playing in our shops.

However, I need not have worried. Despite my eventual destination being called Santa’s Resort – in Kakslauttanen, 160 miles north of the Arctic Circle – it turned out there was more to this stunning country than men in red suits saying ho ho ho.

It’s a fair old haul up to the Arctic Circle and involves flying from Heathrow to Helsinki and onwards to Ivalo, about five hours’ airtime in all. But the moment you step from the sleepy little airport into the brilliant night, you will fall in love with the magical landscape.

My first evening was spent at the Holiday Club in the resort of Saariselka, where we enjoyed a relaxing self-service dinner of salad, tomato soup and creamy salmon and potato casserole, all good, heartwarming fare to keep out the sub-zero temperatures.

And then a good night’s sleep was in order at the hotel, a clean, basic ski lodge-type affair with comfortable rooms and a homely atmosphere.

Next morning we set off for Santa’s Resort in nearby Kakslauttanen where a number of forest safaris are available. I began trekking around on a beautiful, stocky Finnish pony which was extremely placid and gentle. Which was a relief as I’m not much of a rider.

Then it was off to meet Lapland’s second most famous residents – the reindeer – and have a go at sledging. What an experience, riding along in a fur-covered sledge pulled by these beautiful creatures, who are actually much smaller than you’d imagine.

They’re not very bright, though, and are easily distracted, so one minute you’re galloping along and the next you’re stock still while your reindeer examines a particularly interesting overhanging branch.

It was a bit of a jolt swapping reindeer for smelly, noisy snowmobiles, but if speed’s your thing, this is the way to travel. My jaunt took me through the snow-laden trees for lunch – out in a forest clearing in -8C around a camp fire.

Lunch was salmon, dill and potato creamy soup with coffee made in a kettle over the fire. It was one of the most memorable meals I’ve ever had, surrounded by the pure white beauty of the forests and the peace and quiet...actually there was no peace and quiet thanks to the husky sleds awaiting.

Those dogs are born to run, and once they’re harnessed they bark and howl until you let them take off. And this was the highlight, driving a team of six huskies, standing on a couple of skis at the back of the sled and hoping not to fall off. Exhilarating doesn’t come close. It’s not as easy as you might think.

If you want them to stop, you have to perform a slightly unnerving manoeuvre which involves jumping off the skis on to the brake with all your weight. And if they don’t think you’re helping enough, they glance over their shoulders and give you a look of faint disgust.

Then, of course, because they reach the flat before you do, you have seconds to dive back on to the skis before you’re away, flying through the snow. Believe me, it’s the only way to travel.

There are various packages available at Santa’s Resort, from half day to full day safaris with horses, reindeer, huskies or snowmobiles. A four-hour husky safari will set you back €185 per person with lunch so it’s not cheap but it’s well worth it.

Outdoor gear is available for hire and in temperatures as low as -18C you really will want proper thermal snowsuits and boots and gloves.

After all this bracing outdoor activity, a steamy smoke sauna at Hotel Kakslauttanen was called for, followed by, for those of us brave enough, a dip in an ice pool. It cleanses the soul, apparently. I wimped out so my soul remains unclean, but I was toasty warm after a session in the sauna and even wandering dressed in nothing more than a towel through the snow from sauna to changing rooms wasn’t enough to chill my bones again.

For the evening, I headed to the newly-opened Celebration House at Santa’s Resort, where dinner was a self-service feast boasting such specialities as smoked reindeer, moose steaks and hare, and then a local bar back in Saariselka.

Be warned – if a night on the tiles is your thing, it doesn’t come cheap. A glass of wine will set you back €7.50. Thanks to the price of drinks, none of the crowd was hungover for the next excursion the following morning – a trip out on to Lake Inari.

We headed out over the frozen lake on snowmobiles to learn how the locals catch fish by drilling holes into the ice and casting nets below. We even had a go ourselves at drilling holes and waving a fishing rod into the chilly waters.

Finally, if you fancy a bit of culture, Siida in Inari is worth a visit. The museum is dedicated to Sami culture – the indigenous people of the region – and will teach you all you need to know about them.

But hands down, the most spectacular thing about Lapland is the vast swathes of snowy forests and the amazing, strangely-eerie, blueish light all day long. It’s not dark as such because of all the snow and you do get a few hours of full daylight between about 11am and 2pm.

And of course, there’s the lure of the illusive northern lights, which I sort of saw (it looked like someone was shining a huge orange-bulbed torch into the sky). If you’re keen to stay up and wait for their appearance, your best bet is to stay in a glass igloo at Santa’s Resort.

So despite Lapland being indelibly linked in our imaginations with all things Christmassy, it turns out there is far more to the country than seasonal festivities.

You can visit Father Christmas’s house, but it’s worth considering going there for the winter sports, the Sami culture and the hospitality of these relaxed and friendly people.