THE mountains that rise from the shores of Lake Annecy offer some of the world’s finest winter sports. But I’m not here to ski. It’s not even snowing.

I’m standing at the Col des Annes at an altitude of more than 1,700m for one thing only: the view. And it’s been worth every step. The mountainsides tumbles down to alpine meadows of the most vivid green while beyond, along a glacial valley straight from the pages of a geography text book, rise the splintered peaks of the high Alps and, beyond, the king of them all, Mont Blanc.

Despite its beauty and drama I am almost alone – the only sound being the deep clunk, clunk of cow bells (yes, they really do wear them). Oh, and the laughter of my friends, stomping along, and posing for theatrical photos on the steep ridge.

The French Alps have long been the first choice for skiers, with world-class spots like Courchevell, Meribel and Val d’Isere attracting Brits by the plane-load every winter.

What is perhaps less well known is that this is also the perfect place to head for the heights after the snow has gone. Come spring or autumn and you’ll have the roof of Europe all to yourself. Which is why I’m here, high above the pretty village resorts of Le Grand Bornand and La Clusaz, not with skis but in muddy boots and a rucksack full of creamy Reblochon cheese – more of which later.

“This is a great place to ski,” says mountain sports enthusiast Stephanie Pollet, whose job it is to attract more adventruous travellers in the Lake Annecy ski area out of winter. “There is a good range of pistes, lots of character and the season runs from mid December to the beginning of May.

“But you don’t have to come here to ski. These are mountains for all seasons.”

And you don’t have to don walking boots to soak up its beauties. The Savoie Mont Blanc region is also the French lake district – with long finger-like stretches of water arranged like petals away from the highest peaks.

As you might expect in the country which gave us the Tour de France, each is fringed by amazing cycle tracks. And, while you may be overtaken by your share of lycra-clad lovelies (and hunks too, ladies) I’ll bet you won’t meet another tourist. Savoie may have the highest peaks, the biggest lakes and the most spectacular views in France – but, out of season at least, it is also its best-kept secret.

Lying, like a bathing beauty at the head of the lake is the architectural treasure house of Annecy itself. This jumble of tight traffic-free lanes, steeply-pitched roofs, cosy bars and restaurants and chic shops, is the perfect place to base yourself for a few days of gentle activity on foot or two wheels. You can hire your bike on the lakeside itself and set off for either a quick pedal, or a full loop.

Either stay on the quiet eastern shore, overlooking the chilled out beaches at Talloires – where daredevil paragliders leap from the 1,833m high summit of Dent du Cruet - or head back to Annecy for a glass of the local Brasserie Du Mont Blanc beer in the bars along the floodlit canal – the little bridges and grand merchants’ houses along its banks giving it the air of an Alpine Venice, but with the style and atmosphere of the Riviera.

Being a university town, its inhabitants do like a drink – and if you choose to work your way down the wine or beer list, you’ll certainly find yourself in good company.

After developing a thirst for the local vintages, take a trip out to the rolling vineyards beyond the beautiful regional capital of Chambery to see where they come from. Savoyard wines are a local treasure, with seven being unique to the area – including Altesse, Persan, Gringet, Molette, Jacqquere, and red and white Mondeuse. And I can vouch for them all.

No one knows the terrain here better than Bernard Vissoud, who makes a living taking curious tipplers like us on trips around the vineyards, not just on foot, but by bike, bus, car or snowshoes. I met Bernard by the golden Madonna-topped church at Myans, a pilgrimage site in the shadow of the Chartreuse mountains (the statue of the black Madonna inside the church is credited with healing powers – as the hundreds of letters of thanks pinned to the wall testify).

From here we set out into the rocky landscape of the Combe de Savoie, a land still baring the scars of a catastrophic landslide which wiped out the village in the 13th century, killing hundreds. People here have long memories.

The vineyards rise to the eerie towers which stud the hills around Chignin, which make for the perfect place to rest, take in the view, and share a drink with Bernard – who insists on serving a glass or three of what you see been grown around you – along with the perfect sipping companion: chunks of the best local cheeses: Beaufort, Abondance, Tomme de Savoie and the wonderful, if confusingly spelt, Tome de Bauges.

The most famous and popular, though, is the mighty Reblochon – a cheese which in these parts inspires something close to spiritual devotion.

The secret of a good Reblochon is the rich Alpine grass. And one man who knows all about that is champion fromagier Pierre Gay, who holds the title of Cheesemaster of France (a title, one suspects, which commands more respect than most political offices) and whose shop in Annecy is a mecca for dairy buffs.

“We are proud of our region,” he tells me over chunks of creamy samples.

“We don’t even know how many cheeses are made, there are so many. But we know that 95 per cent of all our milk goes into cheese – and the best is Reblochon. It is also the hardest to make and is so sensitive that only the ladies can make it!”

Heavenly it may be, but all that walking, eating and drinking can be hard work.

So for some truly divine relaxation, head to the biggest lake of all, Bourget, and take a boat across the water, and back in time, from the classy spa town of Aix-les-Bains to the hauntingl Abbaye de Hautecombe.

In a land of natural wonder the abbey’s baroque interiors, vaulted ceilings and elaborate carved marble memorials marking the burial place of the Dukes of Savoie, serve as a reminder that man is also capable of great beauty.

Gorgeous though it may be, however, the misty mountains and verdant meadows beckon and, with them, the promise of another glass of Savoie wine... and just one last chunk of creamy Reblochon.

FACT FILE: 'Savoir' faire

GETTING THERE

  • Geneva Airport is a hop over the Swiss border and a short drive away. Fly Easy Jet from Gatwick and hire a car at the airport. Alternatively, go green by taking the train: Eurostar to Paris and TGV to Annecy or Chambery.

WHERE TO STAY

Annecy:

  • Hotel du Palais de l’Isle. An elegant town house in the heart of the old town. hoteldupalaisdelisle.com +33 4 50 45 86 87
  • Hotel La Charpenterie. Get on your bike and stay in a chalet-style inn with a view to die for, on the other side of the lake at Talloires. la-charpenterie.com +33 4 50 60 70 47

Chambery:

WHERE TO EAT

Annecy:

  • Auberge de Savoie. Superb food right by the canal, with fish from the lake and an impressive, and generous, cheese board. auberge-de-savoie.fr +33 4 50 45 03 05
  • Chanaz: Auberge de Savière. World-class cooking in a rustic ivy-clad inn. Ask the chef for his daily recommendations. +33 4 79 54 56 16

Chambery

Le Grand Bornand:

  • Confin des Sens: More than just a gastronomic experience, this stylish eaterie in the Lake Annecy ski resort area is reason to come here all by itself. Sleek fine dining in a beautiful setting. confins-des-sens.com +33 4 50 69 94 25

WHAT TO DO

  • Ride: Hire a bike from Roul’ma Poule in Annecy. roulmapoule.com
  • Pray: Bask in the baroque glory of Abbaye de Hautecombe. hautecombe.org
  • Grind: Watch nut oil being made at Chanaz oil mill. moulindechanaz.com
  • Cruise: Take to the waters of Lake Bourget from Aix-les-Bains. compagniedesbateauxdulac.fr
  • Sip: Take a hiske around the vineyards with wine specialist Bernard Vissoud. alpes-flaveurs.com
  • Munch: Taste Savoie’s cheeses at source with farmer Bernard, up in the hills around in the Lake Annecy Ski Resort area at Milk et Bouse +33 4 50 02 77 38, or visit Pierre Gay's eponymous cheese shop in Annecy.

INFORMATION, TIPS AND IDEAS

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