Marc West gets his rocks off with a grave lesson in geology – within the confines of a peaceful Oxford cemetery

Oxford suffered from three deadly cholera outbreaks in the mid-nineteenth century and the graveyards of its six parishes became full to capacity. Listed in the Domesday Book as “meadow”, a small plot of open land behind St Cross Church was made available by Merton College and in 1847 a new burial place was created – on the site just outside the ancient city walls that was believed to contain a water source with healing properties.

Today, Holywell Cemetery is a picturesque and tranquil haven – the final resting place of the city’s butchers, bakers and candlestick makers as well as the great and good including Wind In The Willows author Kenneth Grahame, historian Sir Richard Lodge and physician Henry Wentworth Acland. It’s also a refuge for wildlife, including birds, butterflies, foxes…and traffic wardens on their lunch break. In fact, this one-off Wonderland is a veritable open-air classroom for the study of our local history, sociology, biology and (today’s lesson) the wonders of geology.

The wide range of rock types used for gravestones means that cemeteries can be geological treasure-troves providing a valuable opportunity to carry out scientific field work at leisure, right on your doorstep and at no cost. The Victorians in particular were obsessed with the cult of death and memorialised their dearly departed like no others. This place of mourning is awash with stylised Celtic crosses, granite obelisks and Pre-Raphaelite influenced headstones. And, by simply using a magnifying glass, you can delve much deeper into the history books and discover a whole new microscopic world.

Meteorologist Adrian Edmund Gillers’ headstone is aptly carved from Lakeland stone – a material produced 450 million years ago when layers of iron-rich volcanic ash showered down upon the Earth. Whereas Inklings member Hugo Dyson’s memorial is, like many, made from Portland stone, comprising of spheres of calcium carbonate formed at the end of the Jurassic period and seemingly very tasty to lichen which cover it in abundance. But, if you’re planning ahead, I’m told “sculptor’s favourite” Carrara marble from northern Italy is the all-round best choice for appearance and longevity…if you can afford it. Once worked by a skilled craftsman, the stone becomes much more than the sum of it’s (chemical) parts – and, one thing is for sure, I’ll never look at cemeteries in the same way again.

With their psychedelic colours, swirling patterns and crystalline compositions (resembling Kendal Mint Cake) these readily available samples tell the story of our planet. And, with insights from our guides on this journey – science writer Nina Morgan and former curator of Geology at the Oxford University Museum of Natural History Philip Powell – it really comes (back) to life.

  • The authors of The Geology of Oxford Gravestones (out now via Geologica Press) will be leading further tours around our city’s most treasured places as part of Earth Science Week from October 8th.
  • They’re free to attend and all are welcome.
  • For details visit gravestonegeology.uk