The Oxford Hub — to quote from its website — is “the focal point for charity and volunteering at Oxford University”. For the past five weeks or so, it has also been the operator of a fast-developing restaurant in the ground floor of its new headquarters in Turl Street. Buzzy, charmingly managed and with (as I have found) some first-class food, Turl Street Kitchen looks like being a big hit — indeed, already is with me. In this it will be seen to have reversed the fortunes of a building that seems to have been dogged with misfortune in recent years.

Until a couple of years ago it had been The Corner Club, of which I was a member, and before that The QI Club, with involvement of the people behind the television programme. Neither thrived. Nor, in an earlier period, did such restaurants as Shimla Pinks and Livebait, though both were actually rather good. Indeed, the last time the premises were run in a truly successful way was with the upmarket White’s restaurant (1991-5), a great favourite of mine. Strangely, I bumped into its owner Michael White in our local pub, The Punter, on Sunday morning, just as Rosemarie, our friend and neighbour Paul and I were setting off for lunch at Turl Street Kitchen. On a brief visit from a new home in France, Michael told us he’d tried to eat there himself the previous day, but arrived after the kitchen had shut.

We wondered if we, too, might be in for disappointment when we turned up shortly after 1pm without a booking and found the place packed with eager youngsters also hoping to eat. But a few moments cajoling manager Sean secured the pledge of a table within 20 minutes. He was as good as his word. Our waiting period passed pleasantly in the bar with glasses of the house white (Vin de Pays de Gard). Next time I shall probably have a gin and tonic, since I noticed that the excellent Sipsmith is served in industrial quantities from a huge spherical pharmacy-style bottle (a matching vessel contains the same firm’s vodka).

Generosity of spirit, so to speak, is also the trademark of chef Carl Isham’s cooking. You can perhaps judge for yourselves from my photographs of a couple of the ‘star’ items. My huge chunk of pork terrine — pink and moistly delicious, and served with excellent piccalilli — is a case in point.

Rosemarie’s starter was substantial, too, and as with everying here very fairly priced. Lots of smoked mackerel, a dozen or so prawns in their shells and a big dollop of crème fraîche — not bad for a fiver. Paul was on soup — a creamy blend of squash and barley, with freshly baked bread.

When we met Carl at the end of the meal he told us he took pride in the sourcing of his ingredients. With the Covered Market just round the corner, this is hardly a problem in most respects.

The braised rabbit I enjoyed for my main course — beautifully cooked, with the flesh slipping easily from the bone — had doubtless been doing its bunny thing in the Oxfordshire landscape a few days earlier. A longer interval had passed — the meat was very tender and therefore properly hung — since Paul’s juicy topside of beef had been ‘on the hoof’. Rosemarie stayed in fishy mood, with a chunk of smoked haddock served with mash and a lovely cheesy sauce.

We had moved by now to the house red wine (also Gallician La cave Vin de Pays du Gard). It proved an ideal accompaniment for a shared plate of three local cheeses, which naturally included Oxford Blue. Rosemarie finished with a nicely gooey warm chocolate brownie with pouring cream.

As I have indicated, the whole meal was a very pleasant, well-managed affair. I shall return to Turl Street Kitchen soon.