We were all intrigued when chef Charlie Barr began her demonstration by putting on a chain mail glove and a particularly impressive chain mail apron. It was as if we were turning the clock back to the medieval period. “It’s the law,” she said, adding that when we began practising the art of butchering a pig we would have to wear the chain mail too, to prevent accidental cuts.

We were congregated at the headquarters of Peach Pubs, a beautifully restored barn that stands on land adjacent to North Aston Organics. The purpose of the day, which Peach had entitled Pork to Fork, was to learn how to butcher our own pork, carve our own chops, make our own sausages and cure a ham.

Before attending the session, I had asked what use this knowledge was to someone like me whose village butcher prepared meat to order. Charlie pointed out that in these difficult days when we all need to find ways of economising, the skills she was about to demonstrate would help us all.

“By purchasing half a pig for the freezer, and butchering it yourself you will save an enormous amount of money. Besides, there is something rather satisfying about making your own sausages, and curing your own pancetta, “she said.

Charlie is the head chef of The Fishes, in North Hinksey. Her cooking career began by accident while she was taking on a holiday waitressing job. The head chef pulled her out of the dining room and into the kitchen and insisted she started to cook. She never looked back after that.

During her time at the Birmingham College of Food, she gained five gold medals and became chef of the year. She then worked at Rick Stein’s seafood empire in Padstow, before moving on to Michelin-starred Simpsons in Edgbaston and later joining Peach Pubs. She is passionate about food, although she admits that it never occurred to her that you could earn a living by cooking.

“I always thought that cooking was just something people did. I didn’t realise that something so enjoyable could become a career.”

She began the demonstration by stressing the importance of buying quality free-range meat. Peach Pubs acquire their pork from Jimmy Butler who has been rearing award-winning Blythburgh Free-Range Pork in Suffolk for the past decade. Jimmy only uses the sows, and gives them time rather than growth hormones to develop and reserves his top yield for Aubrey Allen who supply Peach Pubs with most of their meat. As the winner of the 2008 ethical meat buyer of the year and free-range pork supplier of the year, it is no wonder, says Charlie, that Aubrey Allen is one of their key suppliers.

Armed with a very sharp knife Charlie began by cutting the first half-carcass into four pieces — the shoulder, loin and belly and the leg. The head had already been removed ready to turn into brawn, terrines, and charcuterie. Nothing, she explained, needed to be wasted; even the ears have a use, as anyone who has fed their dog crispy pigs’ ears as a treat will know, and the tail, which was also removed from the main carcass, can be added to the stock pot.

Butchering and boning half a pig is not easy; indeed, it is not for the faint hearted as it requires a certain amount of energy to saw through the various bones, muscles and sinews. However, thanks to Charlie’s patience, we managed to make quite a good job of it.

The tenderloin, which was cooked for our lunch, emerged from the loin, and was cut from the rack of pork, which is part of the middle cut. Because it’s the most tender cut in the whole pig, containing no sinews or muscles, it is the most perfect joint to place on a restaurant menu as it does not require long, slow cooking to tenderise it. (See Charlie’s recipe for tenderloin left.) The belly, which Charlie cut into three, was to be dried cured pancetta style. To do this she mixed together 1kg of salt, 1kg of Demerara sugar, four bay leaves 20 juniper berries —lightly crushed — and 25 grams of ground black pepper, which she placed in an airtight container large enough to hold the three pieces of belly pork.

Having mixed all the dry ingredients together and scattered them over the meat, there was nothing else to do. The bellies would be ready in four days, though they can be cured for up to two weeks. “The longer you cure, the longer the bacon will last,” she said. Once the meat is cured, rinse off the mix with cold water and hang the joints for seven to ten days before using.

Charlie then took us through the other cuts, including the shoulder, and foot and even showed us how to turn a loin into chops.

If you would like to know more about Peach Pubs’ Pork to Fork days phone: 01865 249796 or go to www.fishes.oxford.co.uk.