Old-fashioned service is making a comeback, according to the manager of Pettits department store in Wallingford, which this year celebrates its 150th anniversary. Kevin Willis, though coy about giving out actual turnover statistics, said: "There has been a bit of a comeback and the figures back me up. Turnover is increasing."

Entering the 19th century listed building linking St Martin's street and St Mary's Street may be a little like stepping into a sort of rural episode of Are You Being Served, but it soon becomes apparent there is a logic at work on this set.

For instance, Mr Willis describes the cafe as a destination department' and has placed some tempting offers along the route customers take to get there.

Even I, not a great shopper, took a second look at the down and duck feather filled duvets at £21. And the Lyle and Scott pullovers at under £50, too.

About 50 people, many of them part-timers, work there. Waiting for my coffee, I watched a young girl being taught how to fold towels and flannels in such a way as to make them look their best. Mr Willis, meanwhile, attended to a customer enquiry about a bed.

On his return, he said: "Everyone receives individual attention in a way which would be impossible in a store that is part of a big multiple chain. Heads of department are also buyers, which we think makes for a better atmosphere than simply being told what to stock by some distant head office."

The store was bought in 1987 by the Rowse family, owners of the well-known local honey company of the same name, and Richard Rowse is its chairman. Before that it had been in the hands of the Pettit family since 1856.

Mr Willis said: "Mr Rowse had long had an interest in department stores as the family had owned two in Ealing. They merged together and were then bought up by Marks & Spencer. I think he had had his eye on Pettits for some time."

By this time we were at the top of the building inspecting beds for sale. Mr Willis explained that, suitably enough, the room had been a dormitory for staff in the days when they were required to live in.

Did anyone remember those days? We asked Freda Bumpass, (addressed with old style courtesy as Miss Bumpass, I noticed ) who has worked in the accounts department for 58 years.

She replied: "No I am not that old. But I remember when staff used to make rounds by bicycle or horse and cart to outlying villages to deliver orders."

Mr Willis said the company still offers a delivery service. Usually, of course, it is used for large items, though there is nothing to stop anyone asking for, say, a kettle to go to Goring.

On the buying side of the business, Mr Willis said that an independent store could not possibly compete with the multiples' were it not for its membership of Associated Independent Stores (AIS). This is a sort of jointly-owned buying agency which allows independent stores to amalgamate their buying power and achieve the same sort of economies of scale as the larger chains.

Mr Willis said: "If we were to independently ask, say Wrangler, for the same price as Debenhams for their jeans we would get nowhere. But AIS can put in an order that can achieve a competitive price."

In the blood Mr Willis, 37, started at Pettits straight from school 21 years ago. He explained that the retail business was in his blood from childhood, as his father had a newsagents in Cholsey, where he helped out whenever possible.

His only small complaint about running an old-fashioned business in the 21st Century is the ever-increasing amount of red tape.

He added: "There are also a lot of new regulations about health and safety and access for disabled people which, though necessary, are expensive. You have to keep up-to-date and we have just made a major investment installing a lift."

As a large business in a small town, the company also takes its social responsibilities seriously, as a throwaway remark from Mr Willis illustrated.

He said: "We introduced small electrical goods when Colin Matthews' electrical store in town closed down. We wouldn't have done so when he was in business."

He freely admits that his kind of retailing will not appeal to the late teen and 20-plus market, but said he has noticed more young mothers using his shop. The toy department which does not sell computer games is another destination department'.

He said: "I think they feel at home with familiar toys and board games. Customers receive individual attention and the motto is: If we haven't got it, we'll get it for you'".

And as for old-fashioned coming back into fashion, Mr Willis cites the wool department's performance. It is suddenly doing very well. Knitting is certainly alive and well in Wallingford (and elsewhere, see page 11).

Could it also be, we mused, that people are going green and mending their woollen garments, rather than throwing them away and buying new ones?

Returning to the cafe I wondered whether the girl folding flannels would still be working at Pettits in 50 years' time.

Contact: Pettits of Wallingford, 01491 835253.