Sir, My first port of call when reading the Weekend section is usually the Gray Matter column. I was dismayed to read the article in the copy dated June 9. It was little more than a publicity piece concerning a type of gin. The eating out review last week was another fawning article, this time to Carluccio's. I appreciate that an eating out review is a different beast to a personality' column, but I feel that the eating out column should revert to its normal policy of pay-our-own-way' testing and that sycophantic homilies should be banished.
Elizabeth Chubb, Thame
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