These are tough times for the meat trade. People are now eating less meat than ever before.

The BSE crisis put many people off buying British beef for good and though it has now been given the all clear many are still reluctant to put it back on their shopping list.

More and more people have become vegetarian, or more radically vegan, fearing that eating a lot of meat will do them more harm than good. And those who do eat meat are eating much less red meat and turning to healthier alternatives such as poultry.

In the current climate it has become increasingly difficult for independent butchers to survive, especially with stiff competition from superstore chains.

Last year scores of local bakers went out of business when two major superstore chains slashed the price of bread to as little as 7p. Prices didn't stay that low but many small independent firms were unable to keep afloat in the short-term. People were happier to pay just a few coppers for a mass-produced, often tasteless loaf, rather than that little bit extra.

The days of visiting the butcher, the baker and the candlestick-maker have long gone and people want to do all their shopping under the same roof.

But independent retailers are having to offer that little bit extra to tempt people out of the superstore and into their shops.

Some are starting to specialise in organic meat or additive-free produce, others are producing speciality meat products such as home-made sausages or meat pies.

Milton-under-Wychwood butcher Mike Harman agrees butchers across the country are having to diversify and offer something special to customers.

His firm produces 15 different varieties of sausage as well as home-made bread and locally-grown vegetables. Founder member of The Cotswold Food Group, which aims to promote locally-produced food, Mr Harman has just launched a new variety of sausages, called the Cotswold Sausage.

This spicy sausage, made from best quality pork, onion and fennel, costs £2.29 per pound and is particularly aimed at the barbeque market.

Mr Harman, whose family has been in the meat trade for more than 30 years, says: "A lot of small butchers have been going under because of competition from larger stores.

"I don't think they beat us on price but people prefer to buy their meat in a supermarket because of the convenience. Shoppers are paying to do a one-stop shop even though I would say the quality of meat from a local butcher is ten times better.

"It means that independent butchers are having to diversify if they are hang onto their customers."

Pig farmers Andy and Jane Bowler have been farming in East Hanney since 1979, and are the first to admit that if they hadn't diversified in 1986 and opened a farm shop they would certainly not be farming now. The couple opened Dews Meadow Farm Shop, with just a few joints of pork, then gradually added more and more items to their stock, including a black pudding which Jane makes weekly from an old country recipe.

This product has proved so popular she now has regular orders from several leading in Oxfordshire restaurants.

This year the couple entered several of their pork products for the British Meat Awards 2000, and out of the six entries they submitted four have been selected to go into the final, including a country patty dish flavoured with Stilton and port. Judging takes place in London on March 22.

Besides filling their farm shop with pork products, Andy and Jane sell their wares at farmers markets. They are currently involved with plans for a farmer's market in Gloucester Green, Oxford in June.

Jane admits it is hard work, and that she is often working in the kitchen until long into the night, but she says farmers have no alternative.

"It's the way things are these days," she said.

Story date: Monday 20 March

Converted for the new archive on 30 June 2000. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.