At a time when more and more food suppliers in Oxford's Covered Market are dumbing down or closing down, one forward-thinking market trader is actually expanding. It's Haymans Fisheries, which has doubled the size of its premises during the past few months, and converted their shop into a walk-in store. What's more, they are attempting to address some of the real needs of a modern shopper.

Many people find shopping for fish during the summer months quite a problem, particularly when they are not going home straightaway and purchases remain in the car for a couple of hours. In this recent heat wave, that would have certainly been two hours too long.

Recognising that this is a real problem and that they were losing customers who would have otherwise added fish to their shopping list, Haymans has come up with a solution. The idea is simple. You select your fish, which will be filleted or boned according to your needs, then bagged in a specially designed tinfoil-type packet that is then hermetically sealed. Inside, the fish remains at a constant temperature for at least four hours. Odours do not escape and, should you wish it, the bag can be placed as it is straight into the freezer when you get home. This is a great invention -- why on earth has it taken so long for me to discover it? Now I can buy fish in my lunch hour and stop worrying about leaving it in the car during the afternoon.

Then there is the selection of fish. Haymans has tuned into modern trends and is offering fish salads composed of a colourful mix of octopus, squid, mussels and prawns. They have a tasty selection of anchovies too.

Geraint Jones, who has recently taken on the responsibility of managing this enterprising fishmongers, says that supplying Mediterranean-style fish mixes is all part of Haymans' new approach.

"We can't just produce fish on a slab any longer, with a 'take it or leave it' attitude. We have to be conscious of the trends and cater for a more cosmopolitan palate these days. "With so many people travelling to the Mediterranean and getting a taste for the fish they eat there, we have got to give them a chance of experiencing it here.

"We've solved the problem of how customers get their fish home by offering the packaging service. I think we have solved the problem of giving them what they want by expanding our range of goods." Geraint says the next thing he wants to organise is a recipe service. He admits he doesn't know enough about cooking to answer all the customers' questions about cooking fish. The service will be supplied by a machine. "All a customer has to do is type in the type of fish they want to cook and the machine will print out suitable recipes."

But he is not sure that many of his customers will need this service. "Since coming to Oxford from Wales, I've found that the people here appear to know far more about fish and cooking fish than the people at home. I often ask them if they want the fish filleted, boned or what ever, and they say they can do it themselves. It's most impressive -- very satisfying, too, serving people who know the product."

There's space left in the far corner of the shop now that it's expanded to take over the premises next door -- but not for long. This will shortly to filled with several small tables and stools so that wine and tasty fish nibbles, oysters, fish salads or fish sandwiches can be served.

When that's all in place, Geraint's next job is to organise a grand opening. He won't say which celebrity he's lined up as the official opener, but he promises it will be some one we all know connected with fish and cooking who's guaranteed to attract the crowds. For those who feel this is all going a bit too far and is all much too trendy for the Covered Market, he says there's no need to worry.

There will still be at least 50 different types of fresh sea fish displayed in the window, the cats of Oxford will still be able to have a dish of fish off-cuts as a treat, and popular fish such as cod will still be available. The shop even sells tubs of frozen fish stock which they have cooked themselves.

Asked exactly how many different fish products were on display if you counted those in jars and the freezer cabinet, Geraint did a quick calculation and came up with a figure of between 250 and 300. Which, once again, I found impressive.

Apart from dealing with the public, Haymans supplies many of the major Oxford restaurants and most of the colleges. These orders are serviced downstairs in their large cellar where their main stock is kept in a series of walk-in refrigerators. A team of people are employed to work throughout the day to cut and pack these orders.

"We deal with small orders too," Geraint stressed. "All we need is 24 hours notice and if the fish is in season and someone wants we will certainly do all we can to get it for them. That's what running a small business is all about." Their supplies are delivered daily from London, Cornwall, Ireland and further afield. When they can, a team of Geraint's staff visits Billingsgate too.

"We don't do that as often as we should, as it is a 3am job, and we have to go on through the day. But when we can we get up there, if only to see what's on offer, meet new suppliers and simply soak up the atmosphere. You can also get a jolly good breakfast there."

Geraint is aware that the future of the covered market, which dates back to 1774, is now in doubt and that it has been listed as a £7m asset by Oxford City Council. Naturally, the possibility of it being sold off to a developer is a great concern, not just to Haymans which has invested heavily in the future, but to all the market traders.

He just hopes that the recent improvements Haymans has made will bring more people to the market and persuade the council to look elsewhere if they want to raise funds.