Cheerful by name,cheerful by nature — you cannot deny the fresh, summery exuberance of the menu at a brand new Marlow restaurant.

The bright and breezy Cheerful Soul is all set to build on the energy and creativity of its owners, Michele English and Russell Clement, who were the winners of the second series of BBC Two’s popular The Restaurant — presided over by Oxfordshire’s Michelin-starred maestro Raymond Blanc — in which couples competed for the opportunity to run their own eaterie.

The renovation of the Hare & Hounds in Marlow — the 17th-century pub that is home to The Cheerful Soul — has taken three months of hard work by Michele and Russell, and they opened for business at the beginning of July. Russell presides over the kitchen, while Michele — the most wonderful smiley and enthusiastic host — ensures that diners receive first-class service and an enjoyable meal.

I was invited along to sample Russell’s seasonal fare, and I was intrigued as to what direction it would take. After all, well-heeled Marlow is pretty heavy on the fine dining, being home to the Michelin-starred Hand & Flowers, The Oak Room at Danesfield House Hotel (where head chef Adam Simmonds should most certainly have a Michelin star) and Aubergine at The Compleat Angler.

Having watched The Restaurant avidly, it is good to see that Michele and Russell have stayed true to their gastronomic vision. The food is not too fancy, but it is tasty, it is British, and it reflects the season to perfection. It’s also fairly easy on the pocket.

They had only been open a couple of weeks when I visited, but The Cheerful Soul exhibited great promise. Service may have been a bit too swift for my liking (I am one of those people who likes a 15-20 minute gap between courses), but I am sure they will soon settle into a rhythm and establish their niche.

The restaurant can seat 70 and is large, light and airy, with wonderful exposed oak beams, an eclectic mix of chairs around the tables, splashes of lime green and turquoise blue upholstery and a funky hand-painted wall border. Following the gastro-pub trend, it is bereft of curtains and carpets which, when combined with the fact the restaurant is within yards of the busy Henley Road, could, we thought, make for quite a clatter when the place is full.

The menu offered six starters and the same number of mains. Additionally, from the grill there were sirloin, forerib, fillet and skirt steaks — dry-matured for 28 days — and Cornish sardines.

Dinner kicked off auspiciously with two fine starters. Mine was a slim slice of Brixham crab and clotted cream tart, which was rich and dense and positively bursting with fishy flavour. The pastry was good too.

My friend Sue chose the pea, mint and broad bean soup topped with lemon oil, and crusty bread. You couldn’t get more summery than this dish — in both its bright green hue and tasty combination of vegetables.

I opted for a sirloin steak from Michele and Russell’s ‘brilliant butcher Aubrey Allen’, to quote the menu, and it arrived cooked medium as requested, was perfectly tender, and accompanied by some roasted cherry tomatoes, a portobello mushroom and home-made chips (good!). However, it was all a bit dry. I would have liked a sauce or perhaps some herb butter with it, but, although I asked, our cheerful waitress couldn’t help on that front.

Sue loved the smoked aubergine puree that came with her unusual braised lamb clod fillet (it is a little-known but tender cut from the shoulder) — but it did make an unappetising streak of grey on the plate and we thought it might have been better served in a little dish. There was also some buttered spinach and Sue ordered a side of mash, which I couldn’t get a look-in with as she declared it ‘divine’.

The choice of puddings was limited, but both our choices were good. Sue said her egg custard tart resembled and tasted like a pastry-encased crème brûlée, and got top marks, and my floating island meringue was sweet and squishy, served with a refreshing combo of mango sorbet, strawberries and basil.

All in all, an auspicious start from a promising partnership.

The Cheerful Soul in The Hare & Hounds, Henley Road, Marlow SL7 2DF tel: 01628 483343 The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner five-and-a-half days-a-week (closed Sunday evenings and all day Monday)