From the moment the huge oak gates open as if by magic to admit you to the twinkling courtyard within, you know that a visit to Whatley Manor is going to be nothing less than special.

This luxurious 23-bedroomed Relaix & Chateaux country house hotel, near Malmesbury in Wiltshire, has been on a roll of late, and I had been invited to sample head chef Martin Burge’s acclaimed cuisine, and stay overnight.

His restaurant, The Dining Room, has just received the highly coveted accolade of two Michelin stars and was recently awarded its fourth AA rosette and achieved a top 30 ranking (at number 28) in the Which? Good Food Guide 2009. On top of this, Whatley Manor has been voted number two in the ‘best leisure hotel in the world’ category by the Swiss business and economic publication Bilanz, outranked only by the Four Seasons Resort, Koh Samui — staggeringly impressive accolades.

We handed over the car keys to the doorman and checked into our ultra-chic room. It was large and luxurious and situated at a corner of the house so we had great views across the gardens (there are 12 acres of beautifully manicured grounds in which to stroll) and the rolling Wiltshire countryside.

Whatley Manor is ideally situated for touring the Cotswolds and close to the shopping and cultural delights of Bath and Bristol, so makes a great weekend break destination, especially as it offers the relaxing delights of the excellent Aquarias Spa on-site too.

We enjoyed pre-dinner aperitifs in the main lounge with its huge roaring log fire and atmospheric candlelight - there are several lounges and public areas, all furnished with squashy sofas and chairs in which to sprawl comfortably.

My raspberry Champagne cocktail and my husband’s Mojito were spot on and accompanied by the prettiest plate of canapes, almost too perfect to eat — a perfectly-poached quail’s egg with leek, smoked eel and kipper foam, an apple jelly with blue cheese mousse and celery, topped with truffle, and an intense foie gras mousse with a red wine pepper jelly.

And so to The Dining Room, a stylishly calm combination of lemony cream decor, chic striped upholstery and extravagant floral arrangements. Martin Burge’s food is described as classical French with a modern interpretation, and what followed certainly epitomised this.

We chose the tasting menu, my favourite way of dining because you get to try a much wider range from the menu, but in smaller servings. Somehow, I don’t seem to end up feeling so full that way and can totally appreciate all that is put before me. In fact, we decided to go the whole hog and opted for the ‘wine matching’ too, so each course was accompanied by the perfect wine, but again in a manageable size.

This tasting menu was slightly different to the norm in that diners are offered a choice of two starters, main courses and desserts. In the interests of research, Steve and I chose one of each. So, after an amuse bouche which was pretty sensational in itself — a shot glass of savoury potato foam with a deep-fried parmesan bon-bon and truffle essence dip, giving an intense cheese hit — he started with sauteed girolle mushrooms, served with another perfectly-poached quail’s egg, sweet wine jelly and the unmistakable taste of Jerusalem artichoke in a quirky cappucino style.

The paired wine was a French Sauvignon de St Bris, Organic 2006, its medium-weight palate was perfect.

My starter was my favourite course of the entire meal, its outward simplicity masking its star quality. Warm and succulent curls of smoked duck breast and cured foie gras mingled with dots of sunflower seed puree and merlot vinegar gel in a combination that was full of intense flavours — all could be tasted separately but melded effectively. It was pretty, fresh and interesting. My paired wine was a dry and sherbetty New Zealand Riesling Vidal Estate 2007.

Our fish course featured plump tiger prawns, with a chunk of flavoursome Sandridge Farm bacon — a very posh ‘surf and turf’ really — finished with pumpkin puree and langoustine foam. I loved this, but Steve, an ardent fat-hater, was less struck by the bacon. The paired wine, a New Zealand Pinot Gris 2007, cut through any fattiness with its honeyed pear and peach flavours.

Our lovely waitresses, who explained the components of each course and also described the wines, then brought our main courses. My husband had the loin of Cornish lamb, pink and tender and served with a celeriac and truffle puree, topped with shavings of ewes’ cheese. It was accompanied by a South African Pinot Noir.

My choice was wild grouse which, oh dear me, came with more foie gras, this time pan-fried and absolutely fabulous, served with carrot puree and red wine sauce. It was sensational, and so was the red wine, a Californian Syrah 2005, that accompanied it.

Then out came the cheese trolley and we chose a selection from the amazing array of artisan English and French cheeses to nibble while enjoying a glass of ten-year-old Quinta do Portal tawny port.

Two tiny pre-desserts whetted our appetite before pudding. A shot glass of acai and blueberry foam, and then a lemon jelly thyme foam with Earl Grey pannacotta.

I for one was fading fast, but hung in there for the warm treacle tart which, thankfully, followed the ‘small but perfect’ formula and came dressed with iced custard and apple sherbet. It was accompanied by a glass of French Jurancon 2004, with tones of lush quince and honey.

Steve declared the bitter chocolate mousse, topped with bergamot ice-cream and glazed chestnuts, divine. His wine was a French Maury 2004 which mingled berry, chocolate and spice flavours.

Dinner, the restaurant and hotel lived up to every accolade they have currently accrued and dining here is a treat that is worth saving up for.

We enjoyed coffee and home-made petit fours and chocolates in front of the still-roaring fire in the lounge, before retiring to bed. I thought I was too full to ever eat again but, hey, with Eggs Benedict on the breakfast menu next morning it was too hard to resist, and an excellent choice it was too.

My overall impression of Whatley Manor was one of a beautiful private manor house, rather than a hotel. Everything is tastefully sumptuous, the service faultless, the atmosphere sophisticated but relaxed. And the food is to die for . . .