EVERYONE knows Gees – whether they have eaten there or not. There can be no other restaurant in Oxford which has stamped its identity so firmly on the city’s fabric as this elegant glass and iron conservatory which sparkles among the handsome ornate brick mansions of Banbury Road.

Delightfully out of place, Jeremy Mogford’s fancy Grade II-listed former florist’s shop has naturally become a local landmark. Following a 13-week, £1.5million facelift and reinvention, the architectural treasure is also well and truly on the culinary map.

Perhaps it was the warmth of the evening, the well-mannered buzz, the thoroughly un-English surroundings and the engaging welcome, but stepping into the airy glasshouse felt instantly like being on holiday. A familiar architectural icon it may be, but there is a very real sense of being ‘not in Oxford anymore’.

The Mediterranean ambience reaches its peak in a gorgeous new terrace – a secret garden with well-spaced brightly coloured metal tables and chairs framed by cascading greenery and the soothing trickle of a classical fountain, straight out of Rome.

Oxford Mail:

Restaurateur Jeremy Mogford of the Oxford Collection with director of operations Rebecca Mofford at Gees

The glass house itself is every bit as bright and spacious as you’d hope – all the space of al fresco dining without the need to reach for something warm halfway through the night. But the evening was glorious, I was in a good mood at having prised child no.1 away from the Xbox to join me, and suspecting it may be a very long time before another chance for a leisurely outdoor dinner, it had to be the terrace.

We took a place right at the back, next to that gurgling fountain in the shadow of a dramatically bearded, and satisfyingly weather-worn, statue rendered almost abstract by enthusiastic erosion; another taste of Athens or Rome.

There are echoes of its sister restaurant, Quad, but with a more secluded, leafier, Latin vibe.

We were suitably wowed, but would the food live up to the perfect surroundings?

The menu is an inspired blend of Italy and Iberia but anchored by British produce and flexibility to adapt not just to the seasons but, it seems, what has caught the eye of new head chef Matt Smith. And very exciting it is too.

To complete the illusion of my one-night holiday, I started with a sensational-sounding wood-fired octopus with lentils, lemon and paprika (£14.95). It was very fine indeed. The ‘polpo’ was expertly cooked, having a satisfying bite and tenderness with no hint of rubber. The tang of lemon and smoky peppery warmth cut through the delicate marine notes which also infused the smooth lentils.

It went well with the house white, which was fresh, dry, gently floral and Spanish (decently priced at £25).

Oxford Mail:

While I tackled tentacles, the youth showed surprisingly good judgement by going for a steak tartare (£12.95). A tidy disc of exceptionally good chopped steak, topped with a raw egg yolk and accompanied by a crunchy olive oil-brushed ‘crostini’ of toast, it was deeply satisfying – juicy, melt-in-the-mouth and delicately flavoured. Simple perfection.

In keeping with the Italian atmosphere, there were little ‘pizzettas’, pasta and risotto. But it was the fish which grabbed me, particularly the promise of a filet of stream trout (again, with the home-sourced produce). This came with tenderstem broccoli, watercress, brown shrimp butter and a grilled half-lemon (£22.95).

Oxford Mail:

The initial suggestion of simplicity – with trout cooked to perfection with pleasing crispness giving way to juicy flakes of sweet, fresh fish – was belied by a phenomenally tasty sauce revealing the mastery at work in the kitchen. Fresh, silky and subtly flavoured with a pleasing scattering of shrimp, it was extraordinarily good and deeply moreish. The broccoli brought bite and balance.

Sticking with the beef, my young companion only had eyes for steak – namely a 28-day dry-aged 10oz Aberdeen Angus ribeye with smoked garlic butter, chips and salad (£31.95). Cooked (medium rare) and served with obvious love and deep respect. The rich, fragrant butter cut through the the deep natural flavours and juicy texture of what was a beautifully marbled cut. It looked superb and tasted the same.

Oxford Mail:

Forgoing Pud was not an option, and – on the recommendation of our waiter – we shared a riot of the pastry chef’s imagination revelling in the title Chocolate nemesis (£9.50). Far from being our downfall, the rich and pleasingly coco-heavy concoction, cooled by a dollop of creme fraiche, was rapidly finished off, scooped up in seconds.

The food may have gone and the wine polished off, but the night was warm with a gentle breeze and the hypnotic sound of that trickling fountain on the air – and it was hard to leave.

Back on the Banbury Road, our pocket Mediterranean sojourn at an end, we agreed it had been wonderful – and pondered why we hadn’t been earlier.

We also agreed we should keep it our secret for fear of never getting a table again. So much for that.

Oxford Mail:

The Facts

  • WHERE: Gees is at 61-63 Banbury Road, Oxford, OX2 6PE BOOK: Call 01865 553540 or go to geesrestaurant.co.uk
  • PARKING: Limited parking on nearby streets, but leave the car at home and explore the wine list or try one of its eye catching cocktails.
  • BEST FOR: Imaginative and fabulously well-executed dishes from an exciting Latin-flavoured menu, served in a lovely conservatory-style glass house or secluded terrace.
  • DON’T MISS: The fish and seafood is superb, with fine produce and exquisite sauces. Likewise the steaks