At a recent wine tasting, a rather earnest young American asked me what's your passion?' Once we were clear that this was wine-speak, the answer was simple."I'm passionate about the diversity of wine. It's great that there are as many different wines, made in as many different styles to accommodate my craving for new experiences for the rest of my life."

My newfound friend beamed and replied: "Well, you'll find plenty to interest you here - and don't worry, there aren't too many chardonnays to avoid".

Why would I want to avoid a wine from the chardonnay grape? It is true that I have sniffed my way past my fair share of pretty rotten chardonnays, but there have been plenty of hideous merlots, rieslings, cabernets, sauvignons and pinot grigios too.

That chardonnay is planted all over the vine world and is the key component in many of the world's finest and longest-lived white wines cannot be disputed. Despite this, it seems to be cool to be an ABC (anything but chardonnay) drinker.

In my opinion, the ABC's denouncement of such a fine grape variety is more than a tad unfair. Why is it that, for some, chardonnay has gone from hero to zero?

I have two theories on this one. The first is over-exposure. I don't think I can name a single wine-producing country that doesn't have chardonnay vines. If anyone knows of one, please let me know. As a result, you can barely move for chardonnay in one form or another on the supermarket and wine retailer shelves. It is only to be expected that drinkers might be tiring of brand chardonnay.

My second theory is borne out by the many tastings I do for wine societies across the country. Thoughtless winemaking has taught many drinkers to believe that there is an unbreakable bond between chardonnay and (badly-managed) oak. They hear chardonnay' and instantly think sweet, vanilla, blowsy'.

I am certainly not suggesting that every chardonnay that comes into contact with oak has these characteristics, but in the past decade or so, I've tasted far too many that are just that.

Faced with such a clumsy glass of wine, who can blame folk for wanting to look elsewhere?

Enough. I remain committed to the view that chardonnay is still one of the very finest white grape varieties around. Here are three good reasons to cheer for chardonnay.

One - Burgundy. The white wines of Burgundy remain the holy grail of many wine drinkers and they are made entirely from chardonnay. Do the names Chablis, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet ring any bells? The latter three wines come from communes in the Côte de Beaune. One of chardonnays greatest qualities is the way it captures the uniqueness of the vineyard site on which it was grown.

Despite nestling so closely together, the wines from each commune are distinctly different. Wines from Meursault tend to be fat, rich and soft, whilst those from Puligny-Montrachet (pronounced with no emphasis on either t!) are often tighter with crisp, green apple acidity. If you've a taste for the nuttier style of chardonnay then the wines of Chassagne-Montrachet might just fit the bill.

Chablis, too, can deliver a myriad of drinking experiences. The vineyards are planted on limestone soils, composed of kimmeridgian layers, which can give the wines a delicious mineral and flint quality that no other region, or country, seems capable of replicating.

Two - Champagne. Yes, without chardonnay, Champagne would be nothing. Typically, Champagne is a blend of three grape varieties - pinot noir; pinot meunier and chardonnay. The pinots play an important role, but it is to the chardonnay that producers look for elegance, structure and longevity. Chardonnay is equally happy strutting its stuff all by itself. Blanc de blancs Champagnes (see right) are made only from chardonnay and are among some of the finest and longest-loved sparkling wines in the world.

Three - diversity. Despite the obvious reservations of my American friend, chardonnay is charmingly adaptable and, as a result, can expose you to wines from places you may never before have considered.

Chinese chardonnay? Mexican chardonnay? No, they may not be piled high at your local supermarket just yet, but I'll bet you a bottle of Chablis they won't be long in coming.

Let's come back to oak. Oak is not the baddy, poor winemaking is. Correct handling in the winery can see oak bringing finesse, structure and fantastic ageing potential to chardonnay wines.

Do not think about the clumsy efforts that might have put you off. Rather, imagine a little light spice, oatmeal; hints of praline - nicely-oaked chardonnay can be tantalisingly seductive.

Of course, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. And, I'll rest my case for chardonnay with the following recommendations.

Adrian Lake in Henley-on-Thames (01491 411100 or wines@adrianlake.com) has one of Oxfordshire's most comprehensive range of Burgundy wines.

AOC Puligny Montrachet from Jean-Claude Bachelet is a wine I've highlighted in this column before, but I heartily do so again. It comes with taught acidity, firm structure and teasing oak influence. The 2004 vintage is available at £26.

Much more competitively priced is the Jean Bousquet Chardonnay, £6.85, from Vintage Roots (0118 976 1999 or www.vintageroots.co.uk). Made by a Frenchman from Burgundy chardonnay clones in the Argentine Andes, it has real finesse, well-rounded citrus fruits and a crisp, clean finish.

And what better way to celebrate chardonnay's supremacy than with a bottle of Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Champagne NV, £34.99 (Oddbins www.oddbins.com).

Not too austere, this is 100 per cent chardonnay and has a delicious bready, nutty quality.