Draped in shell-filled fishing nets with charming tin trawlers on the mantlepiece and fish-themed china on the tables - there is absolutely no mistaking what you will be eating at The Crab.

Overlooking the glorious downs near Newbury, you will find this award-winning restaurant and hotel at Chieveley which, to my knowledge, was previously only famous (infamous?) for its roadside services.

Happily, The Crab is a world apart from the services and the busy A34, which can be seen dimly in the distance (thankfully) .

Firmly land-locked it may be, but fish is the food of choice at The Crab. And they do it incredibly well. In 2005, The Crab was named AA Seafood Restaurant of the Year, and they are most definitely not resting on their laurels as a new year dawns - diners are offered the very best of the day's catch, delivered fresh daily from Brixham, Looe and Newlyn.

As a result of its insistence on freshness, the menu changes continuously, dependent on season and availability, patronising local suppliers where possible.

We visited in October, with the added treat of an overnight stay in one of The Crab's unusual world themed' rooms. We stayed in Shiva Som - which, I was told, means haven of life' and sits on a long stretch of beach overlooking the Gulf of Thailand. A lovely added extra, out on the private patio, was our very own hot tub.

Settled with vodka and tonics, we perused the menu, mouths watering at the array of fishy dishes such as crab-crusted turbot with a shellfish cream, pan-fried skate with beurre noisette and a whole lobster done in three ways. The meat dishes included roast rack of Ely Valley lamb and prime Angus ribeye steak. Veggies weren't forgotten . . . goats cheese terrine or lasagne of roast pumpkin and parmesan, for example.

But that wasn't all. The maitre d' arrived to run through the list of the day's specials', it was so hard to choose . . . We sat down to starters of scallops in lime, chilli and garlic and a Cornish crab tian with avocado and tomato salsa, both very good. They came with three types of home-made bread, butter and tapenade.

My main course special was fresh and delicious - lemon sole with buttered shrimps, while my husband went for pan-seared sea bass with King scallops, asparagus and celeriac puree. Both were accompanied by very naughty but very nice chunky goose-fat chips.

Valiantly we turned to desserts and chose the patisserie chef's signature plate of perfect puds which looked almost too good to spoil - but we did! We accompanied the meal with a blissfully dry bottle of Pinot Grigio and rounded things off with a glass of dessert wine and very good coffee and petit fours.

The Crab is a popular destination, being close to motorways and Newbury, while benefiting from its beautiful countryside setting. It is just about a 45-minute drive from Oxford, so ideal for a special meal.

The Crab at Chieveley, Wantage Road, Chieveley Berkshire RG20 8UE Tel: 01635 247550