It was the word authentic that troubled me. Why would the Greek Taverna in Summertown claim to be authentic Greek Cypriot', unless it had something to hide? So I took my own authentic Greek - a 34-year-old 100 per cent Greek Cypriot actually - to test the wa(i)ter.

The decor is typically Greek - minimalist. So far, so good, so very authentic.

We ordered a good spread of starters. The menu was pretty much as you'd expect, though a couple of dishes bordered on Middle Eastern. The spanakotiroboukies - try saying that with a mouthful of olives - or feta cheese and spinach puff, the kalamarakia (squid), and the lourkanika horiatika, (wine-flavoured traditional sausages with herbs, a sort of Greek spam', I was informed), went down a treat.

The owner and his brother were chatting away on a table nearby. "Are they talking in Greek?" I asked. Steph shook his head. "So what language is it?" "I fear the worst," he said. The worst to a Greek Cypriot can only mean one thing - Turkish. So when the waiter reappeared I asked him where he was from. "Beirut", he replied. "But what does it matter? We're all here now, aren't we?" A philosopher indeed.

I kept quiet from then on and concentrated on my main course - a good, filling moussaka. The Greek had sheftalia - mixed kebabs with lamb - and said it was over-herbed and not very authentic.

Some delicious baklavas and coffees later, the bill was £110 for four, with a few bottles of good white wine thrown in. Not bad, but then I had always heard good things about the Greek Taverna. It's been there for donkeys and something that lasts that long, regardless of the trends, is reassuring.

From the old order to the new Greek on the block. Manos only opened its Jericho doors a few weeks ago, but I liked what I saw. It's not a restaurant, as such, more a cafe/delicatessen.

Manos' owner also runs Bunter's Greek Deli and Food Store in Polstead Street in Summertown. In fact, he told me, his father used to run the Greek Taverna until he sold it to two guys from Beirut a few years ago! I felt like Inspector Morse as the last piece of the puzzle falls into place.

Back at Manos, we ordered a mezze, and carried our plates downstairs, where silver tables sat surrounded by ornate poufs. The spanofika pie was so good I had to have a second piece and, as it was brought out warm from the kitchen, it couldn't have been fresher. The accompanying salads were also good. Tsatziki, that sharp garlicky yoghurt, puy lentils in a lemon and parsley vinaigrette, tabbouleh (more Lebanese than Greek), good olives, delicious dolmates (stuffed vine leaves), warm pitta and fasolakia (beans stewed in a tomato sauce) all hit the spot, though the beans were a bit well-stewed.

The galactoburiko (similar to baklavas but with semolina) was horrible actually and not a patch on the Greek Taverna's, but the baklava was good, the lemon tart was moreish and the coffee delicious.

Children were welcome and, once the menu and service have been fine-tuned, it will be a good place to drop into. Three of us ate like kings for £37.33.

The Greek Taverna 272 Banbury Road Tel: 01865 511472.

Manos, 105 Walton Street. Tel: 01865 311782.