My first stop was Boswells.

The staff coped fairly well with my trying questions here, only losing patience when I asked them if they would store an enormous multi-pack of towels behind the counter for me to pick up later. "We're much too busy for that kind of thing here," they snapped. They had a flexible stance on refunds, stretching the 28 day returns policy to take Christmas presents into account. But I was advised to be quick about it: "Obviously we can't be understanding forever. We advise you to take presents back as soon as possible."

Their strength was advice about possible presents for my fussy great aunt. I was pointed towards a whole section, which could easily be renamed the miscellaneous elderly relative department.

From Boswells, I tottered over the road, armed with plenty of bags, to Debenhams. Although I was meant to be testing harassed staff, the tables were immediately turned. As soon as I entered the shop, swarms of assistants set to work harassing me, bearing my annoying questions with charming smiles until I was exhausted by their attention.

They were happy to giftwrap my 14-tog king-size duvet. They advised me to buy my aunt some luxury perfume and took the time to find a "mature" scent for me. Could they provide me with any discounts if I bought a lot of items? The whole store was offering 10 per cent off everything. They only scored badly when I asked them to store my 10 unwieldy purchases behind the counter.

Heading up Cornmarket Street, my next stop was HMV. Staff here appeared extremely stressed. They don't giftwrap, store items, or offer refunds, only exchanges with a strict 21 day returns policy.

I asked what my elderly aunt might like, and they replied somewhat uselessly: "I don't know her taste."

There seemed to be a lot of discounted DVDs and CDs in store, but the atmosphere was too pressurised and I made a hasty departure.

In Marks & Spencer, I encountered the most rudeness. Surprisingly, they don't offer a giftwrapping service. When I asked if they could store a large plant behind the counter for me, they said: "Does it look like we have the space for that?"

When I asked about refunds, I was told: "Well, it says on the back of the receipt, doesn't it?" With a little gentle probing, I was impressed by their gift receipt service, which allows you to wrap your present with a receipt that doesn't show the price, but will be valid for refunds indefinitely. The verdict: great Christmas products, but good old-fashioned British bad manners.

After an exhausting afternoon of braving the shops, I was quite struck with the calm and friendliness of the staff in most stores. With their eager, helpful staff, Debenhams fared the best in terms of customer services and their 10 per cent off everything offer made them number one shopping destination for me - definitely Top of the Shops.