The height of ski-ing luxury

Everything about Val Thorens centres on its altitude — at 2,300 metres it’s the highest ski resort in Europe. And Altapura, its new and indeed only five-star hotel, is at the summit of hospitality, individuality and contemporary elegance.

Situated in the famous Three Valleys, in Savoie, neighbouring Courcheval and Meribel, purpose-built Val Thorens has been attracting increasing numbers of skiers and snowboarders because the fluffy white stuff is guaranteed for so much of the year.

Nowhere else in the Alps can you ski extensively from November until the middle of May.

We arrived in November, just three weeks ago, and all around us were skiers buzzing with anticipation at the fresh falls of snow. Even Michael, a Flexiski ski guide helping us to get acquainted with the runs, admitted to being like an excited young child on the night before Christmas, itching to get to the goodies ahead.

Arriving at Altapura after a comfortable 2½-hour transfer from Geneva Airport, we were warmly welcomed by the hotel staff, including general manager Frédéric Carbonnel.

The hotel is visually impressive both inside and out. Inside, wood is in evidence throughout, giving it a Scandinavian feel, and the Sibuet family, who own this and a number of other top-end hotels in France, have provided a personal touch by designing the furniture themselves.

The hotel’s 88 rooms and suites look out over the bottom of the slopes with the mountains a stunning backdrop.

I could have spent an age in my room, so spacious was it, but the hotel’s 1000m² Pure Altitude Spa proved a greater temptation before dinner.

The swim in/swim out pool felt just the right temperature, not too hot when inside, but warm enough when paddling out into the ice-cold air. The range of saunas and steam rooms was perfectly complemented by an igloo — a pure mineral world made of snow and ice . . . just the job for an instant cool-off.

Altapura has three very different restaurants and it seemed only right to try each one. The Deux Mille Trois, named after the resort’s altitude, serves a traditional menu at lunchtimes, when skiers as well as residents pop in, with a show cooking atmosphere in the evenings and a selection of dishes from the rotisserie, while La Laiterie is an intimate fondue restaurant. The four-cheese fondue with local cheeses we had here was incredibly flavoursome.

For a gourmet experience, though, the star of the show is Les Enfants Terribles, a chic brasserie named after a renowned restaurant in Megève, which we tried on our last night. The melt-in-your-mouth Angus beef, cooked as only the French can, was memorable.

But back to the ski-ing. That should be, after all, the main reason for visiting Val Thorens, a gateway to the most extensive ski region in Europe.

Hitting the slopes (not literally — that would come on the second day!) the first morning, I was met by beautifully clear conditions with perfect visibility — and the mountains looked amazing.

Even very early in the season a large proportion of the lifts were open and the Peclet gondola took us swiftly to nearly 3,000 metres.

There are dozens of both steady and challenging red runs nearby for intermediates, and the occasional greens and easy blues on lower slopes for beginners.

After three hours of ski-ing in the crisp fresh air, by lunchtime my appetite was back and our guide took us to one of the many mountain restaurants offering local delicacies. Here I was left regretting not ordering tartiflette, a creamy and comforting baked cheese, potato and onion combination from the Haute-Savoie region, which looked delicious.

Just as the first day had seen glorious ski-ing conditions, so Day Two was to prove altogether more testing. But that’s the way of it in the mountains, especially at this exposed height, way above the tree line. This time it snowed all day, and the weather closed in after lunch, with blizzard-like conditions making it hard to see more than 20 yards ahead. Oh, and it was –16 degrees!

But were we going to give up? Of course not, we’re British.

Here the ski-ing was hard, and I have to admit I did take a tumble as ice suddenly gave way to thick powder, and I basically couldn’t see a thing.

What it called for, to keep me warm, was my balaclava.

The girls I was with couldn’t stop laughing when I put the balaclava on, convinced I was about to rob any bank I came across (though there wasn’t a NatWest to be seen). It was threatening enough in appearance to clear the previously busy slopes.

But when the snow became heavier, the wind picked up and ski-ing companion Ellie said how she felt just like Scott of the Antarctic, it was noticeable that the girls weren’t laughing then. They, and other frozen passing skiers would have given anything for headwear like that to keep their faces from going numb.

It had been bitterly cold, but still great fun. And this day’s ski adventure made returning to the heat of the hotel spa’s saunas and jacuzzi even more rewarding, and relaxing in the outdoor pool, with snowflakes tumbling onto my head, while looking at Caron Peak, rising to 3,200 metres, quite magical.

That’s the thing with Val Thorens and Altapura. For the whole of your ski-ing holiday, you’re on a high.

TRAVEL FACTS

Double rooms at Altapura are available on a B&B basis from 250 euros (£204) per night, based on two people sharing. Visit altapura.fr

Flexiski offers a three-night stay on a B&B basis at Altapura from £635, a five-night stay from £935, and a seven-night stay from £1,215. Prices are per person, based on two sharing and include flights from London Gatwick to Geneva and car hire. Taxi transfers can be arranged individually if required. For more information and to book call 020 8939 0864 or visit flexiski.com