Madeleine Woolgar visits Belfast, a city which is putting its troubled past firmly behind it.

If you have never visited Belfast it is quite possible the first thing you might think of is The Troubles which ended in 1994.

With a relatively recent ceasefire, you would expect the troubles still to be prevalent on the surface of the city’s identity and certainly felt by visitors.

But Belfast they say now has such a mix of religions, the sheer variety neutralises the tension between Catholics and Protestants.

Whether or not this is true, despite my expectations, I felt no hostility or tension of any kind when I was there.

In fact, quite the opposite.

And what particularly struck me is the way the city is seeking to reinvent itself by investing in its future.

This is demonstrated by the £97m Titanic Exhibition which plans to open in 2012.

This state-of-the-art visitor experience will tell the story of the Titanic, which was, of course, built in Belfast.

Visitors to the exhibition will be able to watch stories of the ship’s passengers and even visit the wreck of the ship on the floor of the North Atlantic (trust me, this is a city sailing head-on into its future).

In addition, the relatively-new Waterfront Hall, an award-winning venue for music, comedy and theatre is also an icon of change, representing the New Belfast and post-troubles regeneration.

Its cosmopolitan style sets a trend for the way the city is developing into a destination to rival London or Manchester.

But if you do only one thing after arriving, make sure it’s to walk through the Cathedral Quarter where you’ll discover a maze of little gems, from pubs, cafes and restaurants, such as the Hooligan Tea Eatery, with its rainbow- coloured décor of chandeliers and maple syrup tins for cutlery.

Not surprisingly, many pubs can be found tucked away in hidden back streets, so take the time to wander away from the main streets. After all, Guinness, they say, tastes best in Ireland so it would be wrong not to test the theory.

And for girlies, there is plenty of shopping on offer – and my personal favourite (take it or leave it) is Avoca.

The store stocks all Irish produce from clothing, jewellery, homeware and food, in a treasure trove of flower garlands and bunting.

My other Belfast ‘must-see’ is St George’s Market, selling local food and arts and crafts.

Top tip; don’t eat before you go, there are enough tasters to last you all morning (I challenge you to resist the cupcakes).

The crafts are beautiful; and don’t miss the gorgeous collection from Made Pretty.

Incidentally, the store holders were keen to ask me if I had found the people of Belfast friendly. They allude perhaps to the preconception that Belfast might not be a welcoming place. But hand on heart, from the moment I landed in the city, I experienced the opposite.

Standing over the port is the 64ft sculpture, Harmony of Belfast. It is a symbol of oneness that, coincidentally, celebrates its diversity of culture that exists within the city.

Belfast has something to offer everyone, be it history, theatre, music, shopping, food, a city trip or a weekend get-away; you really will be pleasantly surprised.

And what’s more, it’s only an hour away by plane.

* For further information on both hotels, go to hastingshotels.com For further information on Belfast, go to discoverireland.com * Where to stay: 1. The Culloden, below left –five miles from Belfast city centre. It is no wonder this hotel is first choice for any VIPs coming to Belfast.

You simply can’t get more luxurious than this 2.The Europa – situated in the heart of Belfast is it famously known for being it is a welcoming and exquisitely elegant hotel (don’t miss the buzzing evening atmosphere in the Piano Bar with live jazz).