Mulling it over

But then life – and particularly the weather – are anything but predictable.

Despite a huge puddle shrouding the islands on the BBC weather map, our ferry trip from Oban on the mainland to tiny port of Craignure on Mull resembled a Caribbean cruise, albeit without the cocktails and deck quoits.

And what a trip it was. Our ferry cut through the sparkling and surprisingly blue waters of the Sound of Mull as the mountainous isles and a far off glimpse of Ben Nevis on the mainland loomed into and out of view – breathtaking barely covers it.

My husband and I were hoping to catch a glimpse of a whale, dolphin or even a basking shark, which have been known to swim along beside the ferry, but were happy enough when a seal popped its head out of the water for a quick peek at the passers-by.

As a place to see wildlife, Mull is hard to beat, with it’s blend of mountains, coastline, moorland and bogs boasting red deer, eagles, buzzards, seals and otters among the many examples of both fauna and flora that thrive there.

And just to prove the point, we hadn’t been on the island for 20 minutes before we spotted a rare sea eagle soaring above the peaks. With a wing span stretching eight feet, this massive bird is the world’s fourth largest eagle and known affectionately as ‘the flying barn door’.

Our hotel was 20 miles from the port in Tobermory along the island’s only ‘A’ road, which is mostly single track with passing places but runs along the coast – leading to the odd squabble over who was going to drive while the other gazed in awe at the passing scenery.

Tobermory will be familiar to parents as the fictional children’s BBC village of Balamory with its colourful houses and buildings that line the harbour.

And that’s not it’s only claim to fame – legend has it that the wreck of a Spanish galleon, laden with gold, lies somewhere in the mud at the bottom of the bay.

But before you struggle into your wetsuit and dive in, remember many hopeful treasure hunters have tried and failed to locate the fabled fortune.

Although an extra doubloon or two might have come in useful, we definitely struck gold with our accommodation.

We were invited to Mull by the owners of The Western Isles Hotel, which perches in an enviable position above the north end of the harbour, with views of the bay to one side and the Sound of Mull to the other. Taken over two years ago by Richard Nealon and Elspin Chapman, who are steadily working to renovate it, the hotel is a true slice of old-fashioned luxury, and we savoured every bit of it.

Our room, called Ghillie after the brand of whisky, had a curved turret corner and stunning views over the bay and the sound. While dressing for dinner, a spectacular thunderstorm quite literally rolled in across the bay, treating us to a dramatic show that at one point put the lights out.

We savoured the views in the dining room with its enormous windows while we tucked into a tasty a la carte menu supplied entirely by local producers. I particularly liked its low-fat options of poached chicken for mains and yoghurt and fruit for dessert. The hotel also has a less formal conservatory restaurant and a wonderful curved terrace perfect for afternoon teas or pre-dinner drinks.

Heading out into the sunshine again the following day, we strolled around the harbour until we reached Tobermory Chocolate Shop – at which point I refused to be drawn away from the delicious smell wafting out of the door.

Boasting handmade chocolate in as many different forms you can drool over, I now think of it as my spiritual home!

The beautiful creations in the Mull Pottery Shop also brought out my covetous streak, and there’s also Tobermory Distillery for those who like the odd snifter or two of Scotland’s national drink.

Having spotted Duart Castle from the ferry, perched on top of a crag overlooking the Sound, it had to be our first port of call.

This atmospheric location featured in the 1954 film I Know Where I’m Going as well as Entrapment and When Eight Bells Toll and is definitely worth a visit, if not for the views from the battlements then for the dungeon experience, complete with moaning prisoners, clanking chains and (plastic) rats!

Back in the car, we travelled down to the southern tip of the island, weaving our way through valleys in the shadow of mountains and munros (mountains that are more than 3,000 feet), to catch another, smaller ferry to Iona. This jewel of an isle with its beautiful abbey has been a place of pilgrimage for Catholics for four centuries and, with motor vehicles strictly limited, it truly is an oasis of tranquillity.

What really amazed us, however, were the dazzlingly white sandy beaches and crystal blue waters that surround the island – again, we felt like we were in the Caribbean rather than the Inner Hebrides.

But I know what you’re thinking – isn’t Mull a bit of a stinker of a place to get to? Well, no not really. Fly to Edinburgh from, say, Birmingham, and it’s a two-and-a-half hour drive through Highland scenery at its best to Oban. Regular ferries go to Craignure through the day – how easy is that?