Corsica - an undiscovered gem

And after touching down in the capital Ajaccio, on the west coast of the island (which is found off the south east coast of France for all those who were wondering), I could understand why that was.

The whole place does have a kind of ‘undiscovered’ feel about it – from the miles of white sand beaches to the ranges of snow-capped mountains.

And then there’s the food.

I was treated to a five-day tour of Corsica’s glorious gastronomic delights – from the Michelin-starred restaurant overlooking the Mediterranean to the rustic French cafe in the mountains.

I started my journey in Ajaccio, birthplace of Boney himself, Napoleon Bonaparte.

And the locals make sure you don’t leave without knowing it.

Every road name, school and hospital seems to be named after the infamous French dictator – or his wife, or his son, or his second cousin. A trip isn’t complete without a trip to the house he was born in, now a museum of Corsican history, or a visit to see his baptismal font in Ajaccio Cathedral.

But drive a little further and you soon escape the bustling marketplaces and chattering French dialect and stumble upon the Hotel Palm Beach.

All of a sudden, home feels a long way away. Half a dozen rooms, complete with four poster beds, overlook the all-but-empty beach.

It’s not far to the hotel’s restaurant, Palm Beach, a one-starred Michelin restaurant. Now I’ve never been to a Michelin-starred restaurant before and I’ve always been a bit sceptical.

I’m one of those people who orders ketchup at dinner, much to the waiter’s disgust, but the meal was incredible. Eight courses of fish, soup and lamb (oh, the lamb) washed down nicely with some of Corsica’s finest wine. An absolute must if you ever get the chance to visit this part of the world.

The best way to travel around the island is by car (I was reliably informed that only two trains operate from Ajaccio to Bastia and it has been known for both to take up to eight hours).

Heading south, two beautiful stops are Piana and Porto-Vecchio, a small harbour-based town in Southern Corsica.

Another day, another three-course meal. And this time Corsica’s favourite cheese, brocciu, is on the menu. Along with chestnuts, this soft cheese is a Corsican delicacy and is served as a starter, main and dessert (baked with sugar, it makes a delicious cheesecake).

But once again the lack of tourists is a big surprise. Anywhere else in Europe, and the view to the sea would be interrupted by towering hotels and sunburned Brits boozing it up on the beach.

Various boat trips, from yachts and sailing trips to larger tour boats and speed boats are all on offer for the adventurous to explore the coast’s hidden caves. We took the latter, and a dip in the sea revealed whole schools of colourful fish swimming around the boat. It is definitely worth a spot of snorkelling if you have the time.

The rest of the holiday followed in a similar relaxed vein. Corte, the historical capital of the island, is a small town in central Corsica dominated by a medieval citadel. The museum there is a must if you want to find out more about these proud people. Hiking enthusiasts can enjoy a visit to the Gorges de la Restonica to the south of the town for an easy walk and a dip in a freshwater pool.

And special mention has to go to two particular hotels. The first, Hotel Aitone is a rustic delight in Evissa, situated right in the mountains. The owner, a small man who informs us he’s a big fan of Pippa Middleton, is a character who seems to have stepped right out of TV sitcom Ello Ello. It’s like stepping back in history – and an absolute pleasure.

The second, the Hotel Piattatella, is a recently opened four-star resort in Monticello. The views are once again incredible, and this time can be enjoyed from a sparkling infinity pool.

The rooms are huge, the showers are like standing under a waterfall and there’s even a dock for your iPhone. Oh, and the breakfast is croissant-tastic (yep, more food).

On our way back through to Bastia, the economic capital of the island and one of the busiest ports in the Mediterranean, we take a brief tour to the vineyards in Patrimonio.

Corsican wine is like everything else I found on the holiday, it’s delicious and yet relatively unknown to the rest of Europe.

The vineyard is owned by Henry Orenga de Gaffory, who comes from five generations of winemakers.

A rare red wine, called Rappo, dedicated to one of these ancestors, is a particular delight.

Now the tan has now faded and I’ve readjusted to my English diet of beans on toast and cereal, I’ve started to recommend Corsica to everyone I know.

My favourite type of holiday is one away from the tourist trail and this was exactly that.

One thing I would say, however, is that I’d recommend taking someone who can speak French. As someone who dropped the language as soon as she could at secondary school, I found it slightly tricky.

But the friendliness of the Corsicans more than made up for that and although I’m now panicked I won’t fit into any of my holiday clothes in time for August, it was all worth it.

If you like good food and you’re looking for somewhere a little off the beaten track, Corsica is the place for you. Oh, and there’s not one McDonald’s on the whole island. A reason to go in itself.