OLUDENIZ, TURKEY: Aegean Dreams

The stomping ground of Lycians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks, Ottomans and Crusaders, all have rested along this heavenly stretch of sand to hang up their togas, scimitars, and armour, dip their feet in the azure Aegean, soak up the year-round sun – and forget about the stresses of conquering, pillaging and paying the bills for the upkeep of the villa/castle/chariot/ harem.

Those sandal-clad travellers of antiquity have, of course, been replaced with a new generation of pleasure seeker – clued-up hedonists who come to enjoy one of the most beautiful and unspoilt stretches of the Mediterranean.

Given its creaking history, it is surprising that this jagged stretch of shoreline is not better known today. Development is low-key or, more often than not, non-existent; it’s certainly a far cry from the cheap and cheerful package tour honeypots of Marmaris and Kuþadasý, further west.

With appropriately draconian planning and building regulations, the pristine beauty of ancient Lycia has been preserved for those whose idea of a holiday is less about cheap booze, all-night clubbing and packed beaches than escaping into an unspoilt region of towering mountains, pine forests and a crenulated coastline of shimmering sea so bright it makes your eyes hurt.

But just because it’s unspoilt, doesn’t mean you can’t do it in style. Draped along a cove in the shadow of Baba Dagi peak, is a private resort so luxurious most of its guests never leave its walls for the duration of their stay. At first sight LykiaWorld Ölüdeniz looks like an idealised Turkish village: a jumble of red tiles roofs, whitewashed walls, little domes and a curious mix of Ottoman, Roman and Greek architecture scattered among the pines. It is, however, a hotel- and what a hotel! Nineteen swimming pools – including the sublime Oasis infinity pool; two beaches, three buffet restaurants; five a la carte restaurants (specialising in Turkish, Chinese, Italian, Japanese and fish dishes); 14 cafes and bars; gyms and fitness centres; and a spa and ‘hammam’ where bronzed, sarong-clad masseuses will turn you to jelly with a Balinese, shiatsu, hot oil or Thai massage – or, naturally, a Turkish bath.

It amounts to the kind of pleasure-dome that Kubla Khan, himself, would have blushed at. But because it is so low-key, it still feels natural and homely – though meltingly relaxing. If you want it to be, that is.

Now, I know many people’s idea of paradise is to splay out beside an infinity pool and stay there for a week – moving only to turn the pages of their book or order another drink.

I can’t do it though. I try, but I just get twitchy. As much as I appreciate the appeal of doing nothing, I need to be, well, doing something. And this is where LykiaWorld comes into its own – because this is one hell of a place to get active.

Sports fans can take their pick of 19 turf and quartz tennis courts, with a team of pro-instructors on hand to help you improve your backhand – or, in my case, learn pretty much from scratch. If you are one of those people who prefer wandering around a golf course, with a caddy, you are equally well catered for; while those who fancy something with a bit more pace, can join the beautiful people playing beach volleyball, inline skating, or making new friends with a footy kick-about or game of basketball.

Kids – and those old enough to know better – meanwhile, can get themselves lost in the vast Children’s Paradise – a jungle-like maze of channels, bridges and water slides hidden in the trees; while wannabe Robin Hoods can live out their fantasies by becoming archery experts.

With the salty stuff so close at hand, though, it seems a shame not to make the most of it. So, disgraced after a comical performance on the tennis courts, I joined LykiaWorld’s resident team of British scuba instructors and learned to dive.

The clear waters of Ölüdeniz (literally ‘Calm Sea’ in Turkish) offer perfect diving conditions, with a rich underwater world of lurid-coloured fish and strange marine creatures lying just a few yards offshore.

To lie on the Aegean seabed feeding clouds of ravenous fish, which readily eat straight from your hands, is a memory you are not likely to ever forget.

If you have any energy after that, you can rise to the surface for a spot of canoeing or jet skiing, or even take to the skies.

Yep, the combination of high mountains, warm air, clear skies, and sandy beach make Oludeniz the destination of choice for swarms of paragliders – many of whom make a handsome living riding thermals strapped to plucky thrill-seekers, before touching down, with tip-toe grace, right onto the sand.

As tempting as it is to never leave the resort, it’s a crime to come all this way and not explore.

Excursions take history buffs to the remarkable Lycian rock tombs at Dalyan – the resting place of the Kings of Caunos, which date back to 400BC, and which look like miniature versions of the lost city of Petra carved into the cliffs. Bargain-hunters in search of spices, carpets or drums, meanwhile should hit the bazaars of the pretty port of Fethiye; while those in search of a reminder of the area’s often tumultuous history should head to the eerie ghost town of Kayakoy – a hillside of ruined houses and churches, abandoned by its entire Greek population in the 1920s.

To wander through the crumbling, utterly empty streets, accompanied only by the ghosts of the past, is a bizarre and unsettling experience.

A short walk, or, if you have grown really lazy, a cheap taxi ride from LykiaWorld, takes you to one of Turkey’s scenic gems – the blue lagoon of Ölüdeniz itself.

In a land of superlatives, this place is a showstopper: a bootlace-thin thread of sand arches lazily across the still bay, stopping just short of a buttress of cliffs, hiding a lagoon of vivid blue, framed by thick forests of pine.

It all looks a little bit too perfect; almost a child’s vision of paradise. And, like everything else here, you have to blink, and remind yourself that it actually is all real.

STAYING THERE

Seven nights at LykiaWorld Ölüdeniz costs from £215 per person based on two sharing, or £143 per person based on a family of four sharing, on a full board basis.

For reservations or more information about the resort call LykiaWorld on 0844 482 1674 or visit lykiagroup.co.uk Diving courses range from 42 euros for an introductory session to 82 euros for a one-day discover scuba diving course and 326 euros for a four-day open water qualifying course.

GETTING THERE

Award-winning low fares airline Monarch offers flights to Dalaman from Birmingham and London Luton airports, with fares, including taxes, starting from £78.99 one way (£149.50 return).

Monarch offers hot and cold meals that can be pre-booked or purchased onboard with prices from £3.

Seats can be pre-booked at £8.50 per one-way flight to avoid the last minute free-for-all experienced on some other airlines, or for only £25, extra-legroom seats are available, which offer up to six inches of extra space.

For more information or to book, visit monarch.co.uk.

DO IT IN STYLE

WHEN flying from Luton, take advantage of the Priority Parking service adjacent to the terminal and the Meet and Greet valet service (london-luton.co.uk/en/ content/7/1449/priority-parking.html) then get through security without queuing by using the Priority Lane service.