IT WAS an advertisement in the Oxford Mail that inspired my adventure.

‘Highland Railways by Air’, said the headline, offering a flight to Edinburgh, then trips on the Inverness-Kyle of Lochalsh and West Highland lines, plus one on the Strathspey Steam Railway.

Sadly, the dates didn’t suit my tight schedule – but never mind, I thought, why not organise your own holiday?

The Inverness-Kyle of Lochalsh line had a particular fascination for me.

During a week-long coach tour of the Western Highlands a decade ago, we often came across a railway track meandering its way between the hills and lochs.

I wouldn’t describe myself as a railway fanatic, just a simple enthusiast, but I thought then that one day I would like to admire the wonderful scenery from that train.

And so it was that I found myself heading out of Oxford station on my way to Glasgow one bright Monday morning.

After a night in Glasgow, I was back on the rails heading through picturesque countryside to Inverness, where the train to the Kyle of Lochalsh was waiting.

The first part of the journey is uninspiring urban landscape, but my word, how that quickly changed.

Soon, after crossing the River Ness and the Caledonian Canal, you are surrounded by lochs and hills on what must be one of the most, if not the most, scenic route in Britain.

What puzzled me was that most of my fellow passengers – and there was a surprising number on board – were content to read books and newspapers, play with their mobile phones or go to sleep, completely oblivious of the beautiful, unspoilt countryside outside.

Perhaps they were regular travellers and had seen it all before. But I couldn’t take my eyes off it.

The ScotRail two-car diesel train goes at such a slow speed – with that clickety-click on the rails that many of us will remember from the old days of steam – that you have plenty of time to absorb every scene left and right, whichever seat you sit in.

For mile after mile, the scenery is absolutely stunning.

In places, the train sits on a ledge in the cliffs, giving fine views of the lochs and hills in the distance.

All too soon, the two-and-a-half hour journey was over and we drew into the two-platform station at the Kyle of Lochalsh, a delightful little town overlooking the Isle of Skye and the bridge linking it to the mainland.

These days, of course, with no opportunity to wind down train windows, you need a good, clear day for photography.

Thankfully, rain early in the journey cleared and left the windows reasonably dry for pictures to be taken at the critical times.

The Inverness-Kyle of Lochalsh line was built in two stages, the first completed in 1870 and the second in 1897.

For the 19th century engineers, it must have been a big challenge to push a railway through such spectacular but difficult terrain.

Their task was not helped by some obstructive lairds, who refused to allow the track to be built on their land, leading to costly diversions.

Given that it is a single line and has just four services each way each day, it is perhaps surprising that it survived the Beeching and various other axes that have seen so many of our railways disappear.

One answer came on the night I was there – the arrival of the Royal Scotsman, a luxury heritage train, providing “cruises for those who don’t like to go on the water”.

Each passenger, I’m told, paid £2,800 for the privilege of being on board, and it is trains such as this which have helped to keep the line open.

My own outlay was much more modest – booking online and well in advance, I paid less than £30 for my tickets from Glasgow to Inverness and Inverness to the Kyle and back.

I spent my final two days, in the hands of a friend, an expert guide, exploring the delights of Glasgow and Edinburgh (the castle and Holyrood House, the Queen’s official residence in Scotland, were musts, plus it was festival time, with all sorts of weird and wonderful acts performing in the streets).

An added bonus was a walk around part of Loch Lomond – it is just half an hour by train from Glasgow.

It was a memorable five days in which I travelled several hundred miles by train – at a cost of just over £150, thanks to early booking and my Senior Railcard.

The Inverness-Kyle of Lochalsh route has been conquered and relished.

The West Highland Line and the Strathspey Steam Railway are delights for another day.

KYLE LINE HIGHLIGHTS Dingwall – the supposed birthplace of Macbeth.

Strathpeffer – the biggest centre of population, it as bypassed by the railway because landowners refused permission for the line to be built. A costly detour had to be made. The line climbs steeply to Raven Rock, crosses the tree-laden Blackwater stream, then passes Loch Garve. The 3,428ft Ben Wyvis looms into view – from the top, there are magnificent views of seven counties, the North Sea and the Atlantic.

Garve – the line climbs to Lochluichart and Achanalt. Herds of deer can often be seen from the train.

Achnasheen – wild mountain scenery, with a view of the Torridon Peaks, Loch Gowan and the Achnashellach Forest, full of deer.

Strathcarron – the village of Lochcarron comes into view, its white cottages reflected in the water of the loch.

Attadale – the most spectacular part of the journey, with the line hugging the shore beside the towering rock face, twisting and turning around the tiny lochside inlets.

Stromeferry – Strome Castle can be seen across the water.

Plockton – a pretty palm tree lined village with yachts anchored in the bay, the location for the BBC drama series, Hamish Macbeth.

Duirinish – the Cuillin mountains provide the backdrop for the last leg to the journey, with spectacular views of the Isles of Raasay, Scalpay, Longay, Pabay and the Crowlin Isles.

Kyle of Lochalsh – the two-platform station is a listed building. The Friends of the Kyle Line, whose president is the former Liberal Democrat leader Charles Kennedy, runs a museum at the station and aims to promote the line. Details at kylerailway.co.uk or email kylerailway@googlemail.com KYLE OF LOCHALSH The Kyle of Lochalsh was once an important ferry port, the main link with Skye and Stornoway.

Until 1995, when the Skye Bridge opened, ferries for Skye left from a slipway by the Lochalsh Hotel.

Stornoway ferries operated from 1897 to 1973 when the advent of the roll-on, roll-off era saw services switched to the shorter crossing from Ullapool.

Now visitors can enjoy the attractions of this small town without having to dodge the huge traffic jams that built up as drivers waited to board the ferries.

Whitewashed buildings, a rugged coastline, busy harbour and superb views of the surrounding countryside are among its many features.

HOTELS Jurys Inn, Jamaica Street, Glasgow – comfortable, well-positioned in the city centre, with the River Clyde running nearby.

Kyle Hotel, Kyle of Lochalsh – small, comfortable hotel with friendly staff, close to shops, the railway station and the Skye Bridge.