KATHERINE MACALISTER reacquaints herself with the capital in regal style.

Where are you going?” our waiter asked as we tried to creep past him back to our room.

“To lie down. Fabulous tea by the way,” we mumbled clutching our bellies.

“But there are two more courses to come,” he said as he delivered an enormous plate of individual sponge cakes and then a lemon sorbet to our table.

Now I know how Augustus Gloop feels. But perched on a velvet chair pushing morsels of sugar, biscuit, scone and sandwich into our mouths, accompanied by a glass of bubbly and then tea made to our own specifications (a mix of Earl Grey and Lapsang since you ask) was about as good as it gets. Add in the view – we had the window seats opposite the Royal Mews where the Queen’s carriages leave Buckingham Palace, and you get the picture. We felt like royalty ourselves.

But then The Rubens Hotel does make you feel regal. The recently refurbished rooms – ours done out in red and grey fabrics and furnishings – the wonderfully obsequious and utterly charming staff and a location to die for, is a brilliant place to meet up with friends and explore the capital.

Of course such an enormous tea meant that, with dinner already booked, we needed to walk off the calories. So dressed in our gladrags we set off at 5pm, forgetting how enchanting London can be.

It’s all too easy to think only of traffic, pollution and noise when you picture the capital, but choose your route carefully and you rediscover a side you’ll have forgotten.

Had we been tourists we would have fallen in love with the city on the spot. Because from Buckingham Palace the city is laid out for you...

Walk through St James Park, past the picnickers and impromptu parties, the sunbathers (if there is any sun), past the majesty of the Imperial War Museum, Commonwealth Buildings and Downing Street to the river and stroll down watching the boats, eyeing up the landmarks – The London Eye and Big Ben – before stopping for a quick drink on one of the many moored cruising boat bars.

The only blot on the landscape was British Rail’s announcement that due to ‘engineering works’ my train from Bicester North was an hour late, so by the time I had hauled my suitcase up Buckingham Palace Road, I was an hour later than expected, and the Queens Gallery had closed for the day.

But as The Rubens is running an offer with tickets to the exhibition included until September, I can just do it next time.

* The Rubens Hotel has rooms from £191pn, which includes tickets to the acclaimed Art & Love exhibition at the Queen’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace, a full English breakfast and traditional afternoon Tea in the Palace Lounge. What’s more, when booking a stay until Sept 29, guests will also receive tickets for the State Rooms at Buckingham Palace, containing some of the greatest treasures in the world and access to The Queen’s Year, a special exhibition that includes displays of ceremonial robes, gifts, uniforms and jewellery, archive photography and a film to evoke the many aspects of the Sovereign’s work.

The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W OPS. 020 7834 6600. redcarnation.com To reserve a table at Tom’s Terrace call 0207 8454646, email tomsevents@ somersethouse.org.uk or go to somersethouse.org.uk