South-East Asia is for many travellers the epitome of a complete getaway Everything from the food and weather, to the transport and infrastructure, screams of being "different". But for those who decide to load up their rucksacks and follow the well-worn backpackers' trail across the continent, Malaysia is rarely seen as one of the key draws - a stop on the road rather than a destination itself.

Malaysia, spread across 13 states covering a peninsula south of Thailand and half of the island of Borneo, is a relatively new country, although people have lived in the area for up to 40,000 years.

This year marks the country's 50th anniversary as a nation, following its declaration of independence from British colonial rule on August 31, 1957.

And that period of British rule, which started in the late 18th century, has clearly left its mark on the country.

English is widely spoken and a kind of pidgin-English, known as Manglish, is also common.

The country's capital, Kuala Lumpur (literally "muddy confluence") is littered with references to Britain. Perhaps the best example of this is in Datang Merdeka - Independence Square; virtually all the city's Moorish-style buildings, constructed largely by the British, are grouped around this area and the square itself contains a cricket ground.

Kuala Lumpur brands itself as a city of the future and evidence of modern architecture is everywhere, particularly around the so-called Golden Triangle.

In the triangle, along with hotels and posh eateries, are the world-famous Petronas Towers and the Menara KL Tower.

Looking out over the city the overwhelming impression is one of a concrete jungle.

While KL has some charming areas (Jalan Petaling, the bustling heart of Chinatown, being one of them) it can feel strangely sterile and soulless.

But at night, the city comes to life. What in daylight appears as ugly concrete, illuminated by the city lights takes on a magical quality.

Around Jalan Bukit Bintang, in the Golden Triangle, are dozens of bars and restaurants catering for all tastes. Luna Bar, a charming poolside bar on the 34th floor of the Pacific Regency Hotel on Jalan Puncak, is among the best places to sit sipping mojitos while enjoying spectacular views of the city.

Or for more of a bustling vibe, Chinese and Muslim stalls line the streets of Jalan Alor and Jalan Nagasari, where you can enjoy the most delicious satays, curries, rice dishes and things which are slightly harder to classify for just a few pence.

But if it's culture and history you are seeking, just a short drive north of the city are the Batu Caves, home to a Hindu shrine and the site of the annual Thaipusam festival in January/February.

The 272 steps leading to the caves are a killer, but once inside the stunning limestone formations leave even the most prosaic visitor feeling quite spiritual.

But my trip took me from the concrete jungles to another kind of jungle altogether - Taman Negara, at 130 million years old reputedly one of the oldest tropical rainforests in the world.

Taman Negara lies 250km northeast of KL and is spread over more than 4,000 sq km of dense lowland forest, cloud forest, hills and settlements of the Orang Asli, the country's indigenous population.

I arrived at Kuala Tembeling jetty after a four-hour bus ride through Peninsular Malaysia's interior of smaller tracts of jungle and large areas of palm-oil plantations and then boarded a motorised sampan boat for a 2.5-hour boat trip into the jungle.

Along the route, water buffaloes and monitor lizards could be seen relaxing in the waters of Sungei Tembeling and the inimicable jungle sounds, of cicadas, birds and other unseen wildlife, became thicker and thicker.

All 4,343 sq km of the park, which is home to wild elephants and some 200 tigers, are protected but logging and deforestation upstream, while it has apparently slowed significantly, has turned river waters which used to run clear to a murky brown.

More than 60,000 visitors come to Taman Negara every year so the signs all over the park headquarters resort Mutiara Taman Negara which say "Take nothing but photographs, leave nothing but footsteps" are not to be ignored. Hardcore hikers can choose to ascend Peninsular Malaysia's highest peak, Gunung Tahan, but my excusions were a little less adventurous.

Not far from the park headquarters is the swaying canopy walkway, which is not for the faint-hearted but again offers impressive aspects over the Sungei Tembeling.

A lazier way of getting right into the heart of the jungle is to take a boat trip up Sengai Tahan.

The trouble with trekking through the jungle is it's quite important to keep your head down so as not to trip or tread on any lurking wildlife - and keep an eye out for blood-sucking leeches.

So relaxing on a boat crossing river rapids and surrounded by thick tracts of jungle is a breath-taking alternative to going by foot.

For those who prefer to be underground than underwater, there are a number of caves within easy reach of the park headquarters.

On the way to Gua Telinga, which bizarrely means "ear cave", is a permanent Batek settlement where for a few Malaysian Ringgit, Orang Asli will show you how they make fire, fashion poison darts and use their blow pipes.

The presence of matches and lighters in the camp and the tribesman's own admission that he can't remember the last time he caught an animal other than fish make the experience a trifle awkward, but the sarong-clad women and children - one of whom appeared to be running around carrying a large sharp knife - make it an interesting, if unsettling, visit.

Gua Telinga itself is a bit of a squeeze and a challenge for the non-athletic, but is absolutely packed to the rafters with bats - who will put on an impressive flying display for you if you hiss like a snake.

We didn't see any elephants or tigers at the park. Indeed, our guide said he hadn't seen a tiger in more than a year - but a visit to an elephant sanctuary in Kuala Gandah afforded the opportunity to ride and wash the creatures.

Deforestation across the country means that the natural habitats of many elephants are being diminished and a programme was set up in 1974 to move the creatures to Taman Negara, where they would be safe.

Since then, 104 have been successfully transferred and the elephant sanctuary tries to educate people about the problems.

Thirteen elephants who have been orphaned are kept at the sanctuary and are being trained up to help with the rescue attempts.

Riding an elephant bareback (they are surprisingly hairy) is quite a touristy thing to do but not an unpleasant experience.

I was put off washing the creatures in the river, however, when I saw that the water offers elephants the perfect opportunity to relieve themselves.

From concrete jungle to tropical rainforest, cheeky monkeys in a temple to water buffalo lazing at the edge of jungle river, my Malaysia experience was one of contrasts.

Listening to the sounds of the night either in the buzzing city of KL or in the natural still of the jungle is a memory to savour.

Perhaps it's time for travellers to start making the country, which can offer 130 million years of history and a vision of the future, a destination in its own right.