Sharing borders with Saudi Arabia, Israel, Syria and Iraq, means that for most tourists Jordan isn't even thrown into the hat as a possible holiday destination.

The country may be in a rather scary part of the world, but it is the most stable, civilised and liberal nation in the region.

It has sites of huge religious significance, breathtaking ancient cities, clear blue dive sites, striking desert scenery and it is the only place on earth where you can - almost - walk on water.

Foreign Office advice isn't overly encouraging: 'There is a high threat from terrorism in Jordan. British and other Western interests may be particular targets although attacks could be indiscriminate...' As Jordianian tour guide Ibrahim Abdel-Haq put it, the country is in a 'tough neighbourhood'. Security is tight. On arrival visitors are fingerprinted and captured on camera. Hotels are entered through metal detectors. Bags are X-rayed and police officers lurk outside the front doors.

There is some reason for concern - in September last year, a shooting incident in downtown Amman left one British national dead and a number of other tourists injured, but if you put it in perspective, the casualty rate is nowhere near as high as the London bombings two years ago.

In my opinion the additional measures, are as much to do with reassuring visitors than any actual fear of being targeted.

Eighty per cent of the country is desert, traditionally occupied by a nomadic race known as the Bedouin.

This is the land of Lawrence of Arabia, and although Jordan's borders were only formally established in 1946, the history of this area stretches back thousands of years.

Less than an hour's drive north of the capital city of Amman is Jerash.

Known as the 'Pompey of the East', it is the best preserved Roman city outside Rome itself and was hidden until excavation work started 70 years ago.

Walking through the towering ruins it's not hard to picture the place as a thriving trading community two thousand years ago.

That leap is made easier by the authentic re-enactments held twice-daily in the hippodrome.

Originally this mini colliseum would have seated a 3,000-strong baying crowd eager to decide whether unsuccessful gladiators should live or die.

Today former Jordanian army soldiers bring the spirit of the occasion to life with sword fights, demonstrations of Roman soldiering and chariot races.

It's an impressive, entertaining display, but a tourism downturn meant that last year actors went without pay for several months.

The south theatre surprisingly echoes to the sound of bagpipes. Apparently, contrary to common belief, the famous pipes originated in this part of the world. Hmmm. True or not, listening to Flower of Scotland being played in the middle of the desert by four enthusiastic kilt-wearing Jordanian bagpipers is something to savour.

Jerash is not Jordan's most breathtaking lost city, however. That title belongs to Petra, three hours drive south.

It is not a threatening country but the terrain does have a war torn feel to it.

The vast majority of the dirty-white, cube-shaped, houses appear to be half-finished. Pieces of metalwork jut into the sky and endless piles of rubble punctuate the dusty floor.

Petra is lobbying to be named as one of the new seven wonders of the world and it is not difficult to understand why.

Founded 2,000 years ago by the Nabatean people the place is a testament to their incredible workmanship and years of dedication.

In its day Petra boasted a population of 25,000 and hundreds of intricately carved cremation rooms and overhanging tombs were built to commemorate the lives of important figures in the community.

Amazingly this 30 mile diameter sandstone city was lost to the world for 1,300 years until it was rediscovered in 1812 by Swiss explorer Jean Louis Burkhardt.

One can only imagine how he must have felt when he turned a corner and first glimpsed the now famous giant, intricate façade, carved into the rock, which formed the entrance way to the Treasury.

On a good day Israel can be seen in the distance and standing in this tranquil, surreal place, you do feel like you are in the calm eye of the surrounding storm.

After that, it's time for some food and the best restaurant in Jordan is reputed to be the Hartet Jdoudna in Madaba, where the piping hot freshly cooked bread is absolutely delicious.

The town's restaurant may be popular, but the reason visitors flock here is to catch a glimpse of the sixth century Byzantine biblical mosaic map at St George's Church.

What survives today is just a portion (about 750,000) of the original two million cubes which were painstakingly laid out on the floor.

It depicts 158 biblical sites and despite being a mecca for tourists (more than 1,000 visitors a day at peak season) its age and significance make it well worth a look.

Another religious point of interest is Mount Nebo. This was the spot from which Moses surveyed the promised land having led the Israelites for 40 years.

Just don't expect to be blown away by the scenery itself although the rolling hills and valleys merit a photo.

Mount Nebo is 2,700 ft above sea level, but is just 35 minutes away from the lowest point on earth - the Dead Sea, which is 1,300ft below sea level and enjoys 330 days of sun a year.

The Eastern bank of the Dead Sea is a hive of activity at the moment, with at least four top class resorts being built by hundreds of Indian labourers working round the clock.

They are the ultimate in luxury and the seven star Riminski resort boasts eight swimming pools. From May it will feature the biggest spa in the Middle East, coming in at a staggering 10,000 square metres.

Far more fun than any of the pools is the Dead Sea itself which has four times the normal sea salt content, meaning the water lifts you up above the surface and you can comfortably read a paper or a book as you lie back and soak up the sun. It is a unique and liberating experience.

On the banks is mud containing 35 minerals which if applied to the skin (and hair) and left for 20 minutes to bake dry, before being washed off in the Dead Sea, is supposed to take five years off your life.

Is it worth looking like an Ork from The Lord of the Rings? Why not!

Such relaxation is not a bad way to round off a stay in this diverse, historic country.

Its location in the heart of the 'tough Middle East neighbourhood' will always raise concerned eyebrows among potential visitors and one cannot dismiss the risks involved with visiting here.

However, the reality is not as bad as the perception. And with so much to offer - from floating in the Dead Sea to diving in the Red Sea, and from the history of Jerash and Petra to the stark desert beauty of Wadi Rum - in my opinion it's well worth the journey.