Doing the triple for French skiing in the alps

A theoretical conversation between two women in Waitrose: “We’re going to Les Trois Vallées daaarling! We’ve booked Hector and Hugo into private lessons all week so we’ve got plenty more time to pose on the slopes, rub shoulders with our posh pals and waste our money on overpriced food and beverages!”

“How wonderful Pandora, so are we!”

Is this the image that deters you from taking a ski trip to the Three Valleys in the French Alps? As one of the most expensive snow-sports destinations in Europe, with a reputation for attracting a certain clientele, it is no wonder that many of us are a little put off.

Yet there’s more to the Three Valleys than gilets and champagne, with enough villages and towns to provide holidaymakers of differing tastes with the perfect place to stay.

Besides, when it comes to the overpriced and the pretentious – there’s still nowhere worse than Val-d’Isère (or ‘Val’despair’ when you look at your bank balance post-holiday.) If you can cope with a few extra Hectors and Hugos and don’t mind upping the budget, you will be rewarded with the largest and most spectacular ski area in the world. With 600km of connected slopes and 180 ski lifts, you will only scrape the surface of this winter sports playground in a week-long trip – and that’s just the on-piste.

But with a choice between the three major resorts, Courchevel, Meribel and Val Thorens, plus several other villages dotted in between, knowing where to stay in this extensive mountain range might leave one a little bit lost. Although each Three Valley town has its advantages, I would be aware of what you’re letting yourself in for, in particular when it comes to Courchevel 1850 – the three valleys answer to Dubai.

I have always been baffled by the popularity of this world-famous resort, renowned for celebrities, oligarchs and extravagant hotels. Courchevel 1850 is intimidating, naff and entirely charmless. As for the price of things, it is out of this world. We’re talking eight Euros for an espresso or 25 Euros for an omelette!

Fear not however as this ludicrous expenditure is entirely justifiable when provided with slippers to wear when you eat your lunch, such as at Courchevel’s exclusive Cap Horn. I also regard the slopes surrounding 1850 as the least inspiring in the three valleys, although perhaps people who go to Courchevel 1850 care little for sport when there’s so much designer shopping to be done.

Unless you are a member of the Russian Mafia or you have more money than sense, then I suggest avoiding this glitzy dump and revert to the other more characterful Courchevel villages such as 1650, Le Praz or my favourite, La Tania.

La Tania was built for the journalists of the 1992 winter Olympics and is only a slight eye-sore, yet the village has a lovely cosy feel about it, a choice of mid-range to luxury accommodation and a lively night-scene. The restaurants range from simple hearty grub to Michelin-starred and you can buy a coffee for under five euros here (this is good). Most importantly, the tree-line home-run down to the village, named Folyeres, is the most wonderful in the entire Three Valleys.

If the concept of the Courchevel valley still leaves you fearing for your children’s inheritance then I would suggest Meribel as a better option.

Slap bang in the middle of it all, the skiing here is a dream. From alpine paths to rolling red runs and exhilarating blacks, this is the perfect destination for all skill levels with a range of fantastic ski schools and nursery slopes for children. On those magical powdery days, the off-piste is unbeatable and the views will take your breath away (not to be confused with when you can’t breathe because it’s so cold.) But if you’re expecting an authentic French experience then you’ll have more a chance of this at Café Rouge. Since British Colonel Peter Lindsay founded Meribel in 1938, the French have barely made a mark. Forget your phrase books, the majority of the shops and restaurants here are run by the British, but not exactly in an ‘egg and chips’ Benidorm kind of way. Meribel is still a Hooray Henry haven (both the Middletons and Emma Watson have a chalet here), but not overwhelmingly so. In fact you’ll find the seasonaires (the guys and girls who work in the town for the entire season) more of a pain as they ‘lash’ and ‘banter’ all over the town.

Five minutes by bus up the valley and you’ll stumble on the village of Mottaret. It’s a far cry from picturesque Meribel (where buildings have to be chalet-style) but accommodation here is considerably cheaper.

Yet of all the places to stay in this valley, nowhere is lovelier than Meribel Village. Five minutes to the main town by bus, this idyllic hamlet at 1400m offers the benefits of serene village life including a bakery run by genuine French people, the best après bar in the valley and instant access to the slopes.

A hop over the mountains to Val Thorens and the landscape changes dramatically; the trees diminish, the temperature drops and the never-ending vastness of the Three Valleys becomes apparent. There are no quaint streets or charming chalets just high rise apartment buildings and kebab shops, yet is as a refreshing alternative to its sister resorts.

The skiing in Val Thorens is second to none, at an altitude of 2,300m (the highest resort in Europe), the snow is almost always superb and if you couldn’t care less about canapés or boot warmers, off-peak accommodation here goes for a great price.

Linked to Val Thorens is the chocolate box resort of St Martin De Belleville, with its churches and cobbled streets it’s the best place for a slice of French life, and that also refers to the food.

I am adamant that no one knows how to après like the Austrians do, but the French still give it a good go and there’s nowhere better to experience this than at the famous Folie Douce bar.

There’s one already in Val Thorens and this year there’s one opening in Meribel. Dance on the tables to live funky saxophone, spray your champagne all over the place (if you are obnoxious) or, as many do, sit there pouting with your Ray-Bans on and watch the world go by. A warning however: do not miss the last lift home and always wear a helmet – especially after toffee vodka.

Good Value Chalets
Fish & Pips in Meribel Village – www.fishandpips.co.uk
Skitalini in St Martin – www.skitalini.co.uk
LeSki in La Tania and Courchevel – www.leski.com

Cheaper accommodation
www.igluski.com
www.crystal.co.uk
www.inghams.co.uk

How to get there
Easyjet fly from Luton or Gatwick to Geneva or Grenoble Airport.
Best value transfers – www.bensbus.co.uk