A pleasant surprise awaits a sceptical KATHERINE MACALISTER at the new look Little Chef

Little Chef has been winning loads of awards I read, as I choked over my cornflakes – best rebranding and transformation – that sort of thing. And let’s face it, it needed it.

Because having watched in disbelief as Heston Blumenthal failed dismally to save the ailing chain’s gastronomic offerings, I thought it was curtains. It was a bit like asking Karl Lagerfeld to redesign Poundworld or Sir Ian McKellen to update Coronation Street. It just didn’t work, did it? Old Heston was lost, floundering in a sea of pre-packed eggs and microwaved food and drowned right there in front of us. But they obviously found someone who knew what they were doing after that because suddenly Little Chef is back in a big way. So I thought I’d better give you a heads up if you’re about to embark on the delights of your summer holidays and the inevitable roadside delights on offer in the UK, by finally taking up Little Chef’s long-standing invitation to sample their new style menu and refurb. God preserve me and keep me safe.

Yes, you may have guessed, not a big fan. I know, I know, you all tell me that at least you know where you are with a Little Chef, but where is that exactly? In some formica pretence of a roadside café with a new sign? A coffee refill isn’t enough to bring you into the 21st century in my book.

Me and my big mouth. Before I’d even got out of the car at the Weston-On-The- Green branch off the A34, I knew I’d be eating my words, stuffing paper into my mouth like Michael Palin in Fish called Wanda.

Because gone is the naff, sticky 80s décor. Instead Little Chef has gone back to its roots – Best of British – when diners were all the rage. Think red leather booths, funky furniture, Union Jacks everywhere, clouds on the ceiling, a red, white and blue colour scheme, birds singing in the LOOS, you can’t help but smile. And it’s so patriotic you swell with pride as soon as you walk in the door.

The menu follows suit. It doesn’t try to be clever or grown-up. It serves the food we all like. British food. Bangers and mash, macaroni cheese, fish and chips, pies, and of course the Olympic Breakfast. Plus the more American Little Chef classics: burgers, spaghetti, pancakes and milkshakes.

And this time it’s proper food, not pretend food. The kids menu macaroni cheese and spaghetti and meatballs tasted of something, the breakfast is as memorable as always and the burger quite passable, if a bit dry. But great chips and onion rings, a nice fish cake starter, some cheesy garlic bread and then the desserts: pancakes with marshmallow and Smarties for the kids, and a big frothy sundae for us, which was still a bit too spray can for my liking.

My only criticism was the big screen TV which was on permanently and very distracting - a pet hate of mine.

So next time the kids are tearing each other to pieces in the back of the car and dying of hunger I’ll be more than happy to try out the newly remodelled Little Chef rather than spend a fortune on service station sandwiches.

There I’ve said it. Can I spit the paper out yet?

  • Little Chef is at Weston on the Green North, A34 North.
  • Call 01869 351169