KATHERINE MACALISTER fails to be bowled over despite reports of great things in Hampton Poyle.

The Bell landed in Hampton Poyle like Dorothy’s house in the Wizard Of Oz.

One day the residents woke up, rubbed their eyes and there smack bang in the middle of their village was a gastro pub, from which delicious smells emanated.

The village inn had been transformed beyond their wildest dreams.

Word spread about The Bell faster than the Wicked Witch of The West’s spells and soon the good people of Oxfordshire were flocking from far and wide just to come and sample its wares and see what all the fuss was about.

They in turn were so impressed that they told all their friends and family and soon The Bell was filled to the rafters with cheery folk gagging for a piece of the action.

This may be what landlords dreams are made of, but this is no fable. Manager Jeremy du Plessis, who was brought in to run the newly-refurbed and refitted pub last year, had got his hands on the Holy Grail of pubs. And it’s been a winner all the way.

We waited until all the fuss died down before venturing over, but if there’s been one place that people have consistently recommended, it’s The Bell. And it’s easy to see why. It’s picture perfect and beautifully done out - think Liz Hurley types and you’ll get the gist.

The terrace is welcoming, the bar area beckons you to sit and peruse the menu while having a pre-dinner drink and from there you can survey the brilliant lay-out of the restaurant and the open plan kitchen. It ticks all the boxes.

The food is equally as reassuring – steaks, wood-fired pizzas, fresh fish, the Bell burger, salads. As beautifully planned as the decor. And the four of us tried a bit of everything – the apple and endive salad with Oxford Blue cheese and a grain mustard vinaigrette (£5.95), the grilled King Prawns with garlic bread and aioli (£6.95), a jar of chicken liver and foie gras parfait with toast (£7.95) and the Bell Charcuterie, salamis, Parma ham pickles, crusty bread (£8.50). Nice enough.

And then the rump of lamb, potatoes ‘Dauphine,’ tomato concasse, green beans, baby peas and a red wine jus flavoured with thyme (£18.50), a very chewy rib eye steak with all the trimmings (£18.50) and a Margherita rustic pizza (£10). Again nice enough. But no fireworks.

The steak was tough, the lamb uneventful, and the pizza uninspiring.

The spell wasn’t working, and although comforting, the food was predictable when we wanted to be dazzled. Pudding, cheese and coffee followed, but by then the disappointment was palpable at our table. The freeze had set in.

So there we have it. I think I’m the only person in Oxfordshire not to have been bowled over by The Bell. And I hear there is a new chef in situ now, so maybe things have perked up a bit since then, but even Dorothy clicking her ruby shoes won’t change my mind on this one I’m afraid.

* The Bell is at 11 Oxford Road, Hampton Poyle, Kidlington, OX5 2QD.

01865 376242.