Paul Stammers explores his romantic side to come up with Oxford’s perfect eateries for wooing a loved one this Valentine’s Day.

THE CHERWELL BOATHOUSE, Bardwell Road, Oxford 01865 552746 UNTIL recently perceived as resting on its laurels, the much-praised Boathouse has upped its game in the past year.

The Valentine’s menu costs £36.50 and the starters suggest the chef is catering for diners who believe seafood is a natural aphrodisiac – oysters in three styles, poached lobster and scallops harvested by hand.

Beetroot gazpacho with vodka jelly and avocado sorbet should appeal to customers who feel like being ‘iconoclastic’, while the mains are on more familiar territory – guinea fowl, pork loin, sea trout, veal chop (anyone remember when veal was an ethical no-no?) ; veggie diners can tuck into pumpkin ravioli.

THE FISHES, North Hinksey 01865 249796 YOU’D be forgiven for thinking this was a recession-free zone, given the gastropub's ability to lure folk in by the carload.

While the cabinets of stuffed fish suggest a bygone era of Harris tweed, hip flasks and a ‘small white wine for the lady’, the clientele tend to be a mixed bunch and in upbeat mood. Indeed, the one drawback for those keen to whisper sweet nothings is that the hubbub is distracting. But the contemporary, perky food does most of the talking – the Valentine’s Day specials include figs in Parma ham as a starter, and chicken, beef and king prawn skewers with potato wedges, apple and mango salad to follow. If you’re inclined towards the succulent steaks, the meat arrives on a wooden board only slightly thicker than the pub’s whopping ‘fat chips’.

BRASSERIE BLANC, Walton Street, Oxford 01865 510999 POMPOUS they may be, but the French know how to create food with a certain ‘je ne sais quoi’ – and if you want to impress your loved one with Gallic cuisine, Brasserie Blanc feels more upmarket than Cafe Rouge or Pierre Victoire.

The premises are divided into two main rooms and a snooty little private spot.

Curiously, the Valentine’s meal deal here has finished, although there are a few specials available on the Big Night. If you’re going to choose from the standard menu, the Paris ham, Gruyere cheese and mushroom pancake is more affordable than most of the main courses, but there’s something enjoyably retro about the roast duck in orange and lime sauce.

GRAND CAFE, High Street, Oxford 01865 204463 THE fact that this place serves baked beans on toast with parmesan shavings for £3.95 speaks volumes. This is a spot that caters for those seeking style over substance – which is largely what Valentine’s Day is all about. The food and drink come second to the lavish premises, which were the site of England’s first coffee house.

To shell out in romantic fashion, order High Tea (£16.50) including smoked salmon with cream cheese and egg sandwiches, scones with jam and clotted cream, chocolate truffles, Champagne and tea or coffee.

GEE'S, Banbury Road, Oxford 01865 553540 YOU’RE paying for the decor as much as the food – the conservatory, the lights, the flowers – and the cookery tends to be skillful rather than cool and funky. But who really wants that Heston Blumenthal-type gastrofaddery?

The Valentine’s deal costs £34.50 for three courses, which include ham hock, duck with braised lentils and poached pears in red wine syrup. Not the cheapest in town – but you’ll earn Brownie points with your other half.

BANGKOK HOUSE, Hythe Bridge Street, Oxford 01865 200705 CHIANG Mai is always name-checked as the Thai place to eat at in Oxford, but Bangkok House manages to combine exotic charm with an unpretentious approach.

The service could be described as variable, but veterans of Valentine’s dining will know that restaurateurs’ efforts to get dawdling punters to leave is part of the experence. The tom yam het soup is particularly worthwhile.