Nuts About Coco

IF YOU’VE been wondering where I’ve been over the New Year, it’s easy – Coco.

And not the original premises on Cowley Road, but the new flagship venture under the Oxford Hotel, near the station. In fact I’ve spent so much time there I’ve started apologising to the staff.

“Only me again,” I blushed as I arrived for the second time one day. But then that’s the beauty of Coco. It’s perfect for every occasion, be it a post-panto feast for the kids/grandparents combo, to a sophisticated girls’ night out drinking Champagne cocktails until we couldn’t see, but that’s another story.

Yup, Coco is my kind of place. Sleek, sophisticated, contemporary, funky, with Mediterranean comfort food, the best pizzas in town, sexy staff, fabulous cocktails, and it’s bang/smack next to the station.

So for any of you near a train line, you can go for dinner, get drunk and go home again.

Job done.

Maybe opening a new restaurant at the beginning of a global recession is a brave move.

But then if Clinton Pugh (he of The Lemon Tree, The Oxford Organic Burger Company, The Kaz Bar, The Grand Cafe, etc.) can’t make a go of Coco 2, then no one can. The last two restaurants to set up shop here, Smollensky’s and Savannah, came a cropper, but the early signs are good.

Clinton always ticks all the boxes when he opens a new restaurant, and this is no different, if more opulent and on a larger scale than the original Coco. And his trademark finishing touches – the mirrors, glamorous washrooms, smoky walls and vibrant posters are all in place (the clown in the bath and bar muse are on order).

Add a huge mosaic pizza oven, gorgeously welcoming staff, all day opening hours, a great space and high oval bar, all combine to present an interesting new addition to Oxford’s thriving restaurant scene.

Of course the food needs to be great too for the whole thing to work, and you’ll be pleased to hear it’s fabulous. Clinton keeps things simple but delicious, so expect wonderful pizzas and pasta, fish, a few chicken dishes, an organic burger, salads and brunch.

It’s Mediterranean comfort food at really decent prices. The breakfast is served until noon and covers all bases, from kippers to eggs benedict and a full English.

The desserts are few, but tantalising.

I took Mr Greedy there for his birthday, lucky boy, and we had the smoked mackerel pate with toast and the spanofika (a Greek spinach and feta tart in filo pastry) served with tsatsiki – both were delectable and truly special.

Next up came the pizzas, which are the house speciality – the chorizo, mozzarella, chilli and olive version – and the mediterranean goat’s cheese with sun-dried tomatoes, tomatoes, mushrooms, peppers, capers, olives, garlic, oregano and onion, both priced £7.95.

Mamma mia! This is how I like them; no paltry portions here. Pungent, oily, crisp, big flavours. and you can tell the ingredients don’t come from these cold shores.

A crunchy side salad, with a parmesan dressing, was also delicious.

And the damage? The bill came to £44 for two, with wine and coffee. But you can get a more budget-conscious pizza and glass of wine for £10 a head.

There is also a special offer on at the moment of two pizzas for £10 before 7pm, running until the end of February (excluding Valentine’s Day).

My advice is to give it a go, because once you’ve tried Coco once, you’ll be back for more.

See you there.