With a name like Mario's, a red, white and green sign and rows of Italian football scarves on the walls, this compact restaurant in Cowley Road certainly looks authentic.

As you come through the door you are struck by the heat of a looming pizza oven, the smell of dozens of ingredients and the sight of fresh dough being twirled in the air.

On my visit — on the weekend that most Brookes students returned to the city — the number of people queuing for takeaway and the casual dresscode adopted by the young eat-in crowd gave an instant clue to the place's appeal.

As my friend and I were seated in the stifling heat of the mezzanine level, the uncluttered decor and basic furniture made it clear that Signor Mario's focus was on the food.

Despite the unexpected warmth, which seemed to rise from the ovens and have little place to go in such a small venue, we were quickly served with drinks while we mulled over the menu.

A shared portion of mixed olives – subtly spiced in a way chains like Pizza Express and Ask would do well to note — helped fend off our hunger as we waited briefly for our starters.

My friend tucked into the mozzarella alla caprese and I was faced with a large portion of toasted bruschetta topped with garlic and diced tomato.

Both selections of tomato looked a little pale and washed out, but the taste more than made up for the presentation.

And with four generous pieces of bruschetta, it was just as well I was hungry.

A hand-written list of daily specials helped me choose the vegetarian lasagne, while my companion plumped for a pizza Milano, topped with mozzarella, olives and salami.

Despite having to tackle the food with a bright-blue plastic-handled knive that looked like it had come from the Early Learning Centre, my lasagne was delicious. Its creamy sauce and large chunks of vegetables were cooked to perfection and the dish went well with the house shiraz, a Sicilia Dacastello, from the decent wine list.

My friend said her pizza tasted authentic, not too greasy and was just about the right size with generous toppings.

With a relaxed atmosphere and youthful clientele, Mario's is the perfect place to enjoy some great food served quickly in unprententious surroundings.

THE BILL Bruschetta £3.50 Olives £3.50 Mozzarella alla caprese £4.90 Pizza Milano £7.50 Vegetarian lasagne £6.95 Bottle of Peroni lager £3 House red (Sicilia Dacastello shiraz) £11.50 Total £40.85