For a chain that makes a concerted effort to appear touchy-feely, Giraffe throbs with a capitalist beat.

At which other restaurants do you see toys, CDs and clothing touted on the menu? (Mightily freaky-looking toy giraffes, incidentally - they look as if they were the offspring of some genetic experiment that went terribly wrong.) With slogans by Carlos Santana and John Lennon on the walls, and fresh fruit on the bar, Giraffe (which has nothing to do with the Pink Giraffe in St Clement's) is pitched at people who want eating out to be a moderately hip experience - and aren't particularly bothered about the prices, as there is little to tempt the bargain hunter other than a lunchtime two-course deal.

The decor is a curious mixture of brick, wood and plastic; when my friend and I visited, our fellow diners were mostly students, gossiping at tables that were too close together for any intimacy.

The tables for two were petite - when we were served with condiments, the tray took up almost a quarter of the room available, which didn't add to the atmosphere - and neither did the way the restaurant lights were suddenly dimmed at 9pm on the dot.

What did you choose?

I raised an eyebrow as the waiter took a seat alongside us as we ordered. The food here is 'fusion' orientated - Mediterranean, Japanese and Mexican influences have been mashed together.

We ummed and aahed before deciding we would order starters - 'sunshine' antipasta bruschetta with cherry tomatoes, pesto, onions, rocket, mozzarella and artichokes for me; nachos with onions, salsa, beans and cheese for her.

What did you think?

Rather good, in fact. The portions turned out to be far larger than expected too. But our main courses weren't quite so successful. I'd ordered roast salmon with wasabi rice and green onions; my friend asked for chicken escalope with mash.

While I tucked enthusiastically into my fillet of salmon, the rice was fiery, and the yakitori sauce with which it came was deliciously tangy, my friend sulked about her chicken being overcooked. The portions were about the same size as the starters.

And the service?

Mixed. I appreciated the scented hand towels we were given, and we didn't have to wait long for food. But was taken aback to be ignored when I tried to get the attention of a waitress, to order a drink; she swept past with a nonchalant air and never returned.

Another waitress was more friendly, although it was difficult to tell whether the way she showed off her bright pink knickers when she reached over the tables was part of the Giraffe experience.

Anything else to note?

Gluten-free food was available.

The toilets were smart and highly scented.

A 12.5 per cent service charge was added to the bill The background music wasn't very loud.

Verdict: So-so. If the mains had been as good as the starters, we'd have been happy.