Summertown flies a little low for most people's gastronomic radar.

Sophisticates probably never stray north of the Old Parsonage, unless on a weekend's foray to the Trout - but they're victims of their own snobbery.

For tucked away behind the shops on Banbury Road nestle little bistros, cafés and gourmet sandwich shops.

Three of us were tempted to try the Portabello brasserie, which has a good reputation anyway, thanks to a lunch offer of three courses for £10.95. You get a choice of two dishes per course, with vegetarian options. Next to the set menu, the staff had left the full card, no doubt to entice us to rebook for dinner.

WHAT DID YOU CHOOSE?

All three of us went for roast butternut squash soup, with a dollop of crème fraiche bobbing on the surface and souring the sweet, spicy flavour to the right degree. It lacked just a tot of pepper, but was very satisfying nonetheless.

For mains, we asked our smiling waiter for pork steaks in red wine and rosemary sauce with sweet potato mash.

The cut was generous for such a meagre price tag, and it sliced easily. The sauce sang. I stopped myself asking for a bowl of it to down - out of courtesy to my fellow diners.

On a minor point, by the time my friend's courgette fettuccini arrived, the mash had cooled just a shade too much.

We all thought the flavours were strong and the dishes well presented.

The pasta arrived with pungent sundried tomatoes peeking from its fronds. And the side dishes were also delicious - runner beans coated with pesto were tasty and reasonably priced.

WHAT ABOUT DESSERTS?

For pudding, not 'dessert', we chose from strawberry mousse or coconut brulée.

To be honest, I ended up staring longingly at the mousse.

Had I followed my friend in picking this, I would have chalked up my five-a-day, and thus might have finished my pudding. The brulée portion just got the better of me.

VERDICT: With quick, pleasant service and a relaxed atmosphere, why confine yourself to the city centre?

Local businesses like this just need one chance to show you why you should look beyond the usual boundaries, especially as the number 2 and number 7 buses run regularly to and from the centre of Oxford.