An Oxford institution, so it's all the more surprising that this restaurant hasn't opened before on the Big Day itself, writes Jeremy Smith.

This year, however, the aberration has been rectified and Browns will be throwing open its double doors for the first time to welcome Christmas Day revellers.

And reassuringly, the menu's pretty traditional too. For £50 per head, your starters vary from roasted pumpkin and smoked applewood cheese soup to gravadlax or warm pheasant and pancetta salad (the gravadlax is superb).

The main course is either turkey, rack of lamb, oven-baked turbot, beef wellington or butternut squash pudding. (And, naturally, with all the appropriate trimmings.) I plumped for the turkey and it was perfect - moist and full of flavour. Dessert-wise, there's cheesecake, profiteroles, plum tart, plum pudding and chocolate tart, followed by a selection of cheeses.

The cheesecake is gorgeous, but best of all, above and beyond the food, is the 'vibe' this restaurant offers. It really is unique - welcoming, comforting, swish and sexy; with some of the best surroundings in the city.

If you're going to eat out, it's a given.