Like many gardeners, I tend to see snails as a slimy nuisance, and have often considered the slow-moving gastropod family an unappetising source of protein.

But the truth is my wariness of these molluscs is nothing short of hypocrisy. After all, I'm a keen eater of marine creepy-crawlies such as prawns. Snail season has begun, and where better to sample this year's harvest than Oxford's branch of Cafe Rouge?

When the chain invited me to drop by for a taster session, I decided to stop being a squeamish wuss. It was a good job my friend and I were expected, as there was scarcely an unoccupied table to be seen last Friday night.

WHO ELSE WAS THERE?

The people around us were mixed in age - there was even a baby at the next table, but the sprog remained placid throughout the evening, to our relief. The place was buzzing with lively conversation.

WHAT WERE THE SNAILS LIKE?

Firmer than I'd anticipated. The garlic and fresh herbs they were coated in made this Burgundian dish an excellent appetiser, with a cool glass of New World sauvignon blanc enhancing both the escargots and the crevettes with tomato, garlic and chilli we also requested. To be honest, the snails didn't taste very dramatic - I preferred the seafood.

WHAT ELSE DID YOU EAT?

I opted for the smoky Toulouse sausages, which came with a wine sauce and herby mash (but no veg - the crunchy green beans I also ordered were delightful, however). My friend was pleased with her roast chicken with Brie and risolée potatoes - and she got beans with her course too. While I enjoyed my sorbet afterwards, it was upstaged by my friend's fruit crumble.

WHAT'S THERE FOR VEGGIES?

Your best bets are roast vegetable tart, the several salads, pasta, or baguettes with cheese or hummous and peppers.

AND THE SERVICE?

Efficient without being smarmy.

Snails are available at Cafe Rouge until approximately July.

THE BILL: Snails £4.25; crevettes £5.25; chicken paupiette £9.95; Toulouse sausages £9.25; green beans £2.00; lemon sorbet £3.65; red fruit crumble £4.75. TOTAL £39.10