When it comes to curry, Aziz is a Cowley Road institution.

Among the oldest and best-known Bangladeshi restaurants in Oxford, this empress of a curry house has, since 1990, been the go-to destination for quality food in the kind of slightly kitsch Moghul-style surroundings, which are an increasing rarity in the fashion for minimalism.

There have been criticisms, though, that the grandaddy of Ox4 eateries has been resting on its laurels. So when I heard the place had been given a relaunch by patriarch Aziz Rahman’s son Abdul (pictured), I was keen to investigate, though not sure I’d notice much difference. I was wrong.

While the decor remains defiantly old-fashioned (thank heavens... these unreconstructed curry houses should be listed along with Tudor pubs as an essential part of British culture), the menu has been given a high-end flourish. Forget chicken tikka masala and lamb Madras, this is all about venison, duck, quail and Scottish salmon. Aziz has gone game!

It took some effort to forgo our favourites, but we steeled ourself to explore this new world of aristocratic curry.

A Horen Bhuna (£14.75) - venison cooked with green peppers, red onion and coriander was a triumph - rich, dark tender meat bursting with flavour - the spice perfectly complementing the complexity of the meat. It is highly recommended despite the price.

We also piled into a Hash Malai (£11.50) - duck breast with coconut milk and mustard. The meat, again, was magnificent, though I found the sauce a little too sweet, and would have preferred more chilli heat. We shared it with a fabulously fresh and springy okra Posto Dherosh (£4.60), pilau rice (£2.85) and misti nan (coconut and almond; aka a Peshwari nan - £3.25).

Going for a curry has come of age. At Aziz, at least, the menu reflects that.

*Aziz, 228 Cowley Road, Oxford. 01865 794945 aziz.uk.com