DEAR JESSICA: I’ve fallen for a girl with a cause. In fact she doesn’t just have one cause, whether it’s Greenpeace or ferret rescue – she backs them all with equal amounts of enthusiasm. I am going to try to impress her by cooking dinner, all organic of course. I don’t want to offend her sense of ethics. What wine should I serve?

JESSICA UNCORKED: You’re on the right track. You realise there are a lot of different wines out there and not all of them have high moral obligations.

Just this spring a 17-year old girl died while pruning vines in California.

She was working on a vineyard that provides grapes for one of California’s best-known cheap wines.

Although this is one of the most extreme examples, it’s not an isolated occurrence.

Increased demand for low-cost wine is leading to migrant workers and small farm owners being paid less in more severe conditions.

One wine that fights as actively as your companion is Fairhills wine from Western Cape, South Africa. This is more of an alliance than a wine. In 2005 all members and farms of a small winery, Du Toitskloof, received their Fairtrade Labelling Organizations (FLO) accreditation. Then the farm workers got together with a couple farm owners and one representative of Origin Wine, the exporter, to create the Fairhills project.

Shortly after that they were named the Fairhills Association and could start expanding their good work.

One of their first projects was renovating three day care centers. By doing so, they created new jobs and help young children achieve learning skills before going to primary school.

Fairhills are also involved in purchasing and cultivating land so their Association can be self-sustainable. This is all very noble, but how does the wine taste? The Sauvignon Blanc-Colombard 2007 is quite lively. It’s pale lemon, almost hay in colour. It has a light aroma with citrus, melon and grassy notes. On the palate it’s dry with medium acidity and no tannins. It is a light, crisp wine with gooseberry flavours, but no lingering finish.

This wine goes very well with fish. Before spending your hard-earned pounds for fresh tuna at the fishmonger make sure it was line-caught. You wouldn’t want any dolphins harmed in the making of your dinner!

The wine is available in Waitrose for £4.99.